Gilt-tripping on the runways of Paris and London
Temperley London
At Temperley, colored embroideries and golden brocades celebrated Russian folklore. Slavic-inspired accents included multi-textured velvets, laser-cut tafettas, and cinched waists with full trumpet skirts. The designer, Alice Temperley, wanted to express opulence in ornate patterns. ‘’I titled my collection Renaissance. Not only was I inspired by sumptuous colors and decadent subjects of the religious paintings of the time... in this fast, transient world a little decadence is like a tonic, a romantic escapism.’’
John Rocha
John Rocha’s gold fabric was crumpled like paper, with rose shapes on blouses and minidresses that looked at once like protective armor and a surreal medallion. The collection focused on black textural pieces layered with light chiffons. Bands of lace and crochet dresses looked breezy enough for warmer climates.
Issa London
Issa’s golden touches were made of pretty lace. Cinched waists and ruffled skirts were like rays of fresh sun in gold lace dresses. A flapper- inspired dress with fringe and an art nouveau print; and a fully embroidered black chiffon dress were followed by metallic green dresses with Baroque prints — sparkling standouts amid the ‘60s-inspired knits and prints. The collection utilized fall’s trends in wearable separates.
Corrado de Biase
At Corrado de Biase, windowpanelike prints were completed with creeping flower impressions. In sheer fabrics there was a slight shimmer. Fully embroidered separates looked padded; in a cropped blouse or jacket there would be enough protection against the cold, if layered with the sheer, lace-laden pieces. The designer aimed at textural richness with a handcrafted feel.
AF Vandervorst
AF Vandervorst’s faceless women, in comparison, looked down-to-earth, grounded and clad in pieces that could be worn from day to evening. In a sea of black there was a gold embroidered belt, and a jacket of the same intricate fabrication that literally shone. As a skirt and pants they looked smart and hip. If matched with a lace bodysuit or any of the velvet pieces in the collection, it would be a complete fall wardrobe, complete with bowler hat.
Anne Valérie Hash
Anna Valérie Hash’s soft tailoring highlighted jewel-tones separates. Blue coats with gold-paneled shoulders felt relaxed. Chiffon secretary blouses would fit any working woman’s wardrobe. A dark gold- gray suit, its coat sharply tailored, was softened by the easy, almost sporty silhouettes that followed. A shimmering navy-deep purple suit looked like liquid leather.
Paco Rabbane
Paco Rabbane’s gold and silver included chanmail-inspired panels on a silver skirt and silver beads on a sheer blouse. Electric blue and navy accented silver dresses but it was a sheer gold dress that topped the list of party frocks. A long silver jumpsuit with a gold panel at the hips, fitted loosely on the body, looked sporty enough to lounge in. Black evening ensembles with hair and metal cobwebs had a tough and sexy aesthetic.
Elie Saab
The collection of Elie Saab was heavy with structured suits for fall and tiny peplums at the hips. A long gray chiffon dress with a gold and black print, belted at the waist, had cobweb- like details crawling up the arms for a partly dark glam look. This detail extended onto a black jumpsuit and created a subtle texture. As an accent, it completed the look aptly: strong, with touches of couture. Gold gowns in a long, straight silhouette looked worthy of any formal occasion.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
The collection’s gold accents were like shiny pieces of caramel candy; shaped leather that highlighted the graphic shapes and zebra prints in the collection. There was a hint of heavy metal ballads in the shiny leathers; electric blue and black were favored. The finale piece, a graphic minidress with shiny copper panels, looked ready for a rock-chic video.