River ride
We’re such suckers for a freebie, so we couldn’t resist the free rides on the Pasig River ferry that the MMDA (Metro Manila Development Authority) offered Friday before last on the occasion of its 40th anniversary. Thus we hied off to the Plaza Mexico station in Intramuros, a stone’s throw from our office in Port Area, for our joy ride. After signing the passenger sheet we got on board the white, 36-seater ferry and in a few minutes were on our way. The big windows afforded a breezy ride. Everyone had warned us about the smell – cover your nose, bring a face mask – but – surprise! – there was no stench at all and, save for water lilies, there was hardly any garbage (no floating bodies) and the river was not as murky as I expected.
The ferry moved along at a pleasant clip – about 30 kilometers per hour – that allowed us to catch the sights along this river that bisects the city and of which many stories and novels – among the most famous is Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere, which has that unforgettable picnic scene on the river – and music – notably National Artist Nicanor Abelardo’s Mutya ng Pasig – have been written. The ferry serves 11 stations along the river, from Intramuros all the way to Pasig City. This week the service will extend up to Riverbanks in Marikina; this will be our next adventure.
The ferry ride gives one a different perspective of the city, a relief from the chaos and grime of the daily drive on our congested roads. I particularly enjoyed seeing the succession of bridges spanning the river. Many years ago, former first lady Ming Ramos spearheaded a project to fix up the 12 bridges of the Pasig; unfortunately the improvements were not maintained, although there are remnants of the facelift done then. Serious structural improvements are being scheduled on some of the bridges, such as Guadalupe. Work on Ayala Bridge – which I fondly refer to as “my bridge” since I pass over it every day – has been completed after about eight months; it is a lovely sight, a handsome two-part span of gleaming steel.
The ferry slowed down significantly as we entered the Malacañang area, which gave us more time to admire how beautiful and stately it is. All the leaders coming for APEC should be brought to the Palace via the Pasig!
Beyond Malacañang the scenes on both sides of the river are no longer as inspiring – the backsides of warehouses and oil depots and other industrial facilities, and a multitude of shanties (informal settler dwellings might be a more PC term) built haphazardly – all obviously without any thought of aesthetics or beauty or even respect for the river that cradled our city. What a shame!
Still and all, the ferry ride was a good experience, something I wouldn’t mind doing again. I’d take it as a commute to work if only it kept journalist hours; the ferry only runs from 6 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. (last trip) six days a week. Unfortunately, on account of the anniversary, the ferry service ended at noon, so there was no return trip when we got off at Guadalupe station. Thus we had to improvise and took the MRT on Edsa, then the LRT-2 from Cubao to Recto, from there a jeepney to Pier…we got off at Escolta and walked to Ongpin for a very late but wonderful lunch of maki-mi and xiao long bao… but that is another story for another day.