BAGAN: BEYOND THE TEMPLES
ON A JOURNEY THROUGH BAGAN, MYANMAR’S MYSTIC CITY WITHIN the Mandalay region, one is led through a landscape dominated by thousands of ancient religious monuments. Indeed, without its temples, pagodas, stupas and monasteries, that revered world would only
However, beyond the marvels of its Archaeological Zone which has transformed the nation into one of the most impressionable tourist destinations is a wealth of experiences of picturesque locales and genuine spirituality.
We took a day-long tour of some 31 miles away, with the final mission being the fabled Mount Popa, an ancient volcano with a temple built on its summit.
Our first stop was the quaint and rural Toddy Palm Plantation, where agile men climbed up towering giants on makeshift bamboo ladders to retrieve either a pot of fermented sap from male palm trees similar to our Filipino tuba, or sugar-rich liquid from the fruits of the female palm trees, later boiled in large kawas, and eventually converted into sweet concoctions.
These were sold by ladies that had applied thanaka on their cheeks, foreheads, noses and even their whole faces and hands.
Though I have noticed the powdery cream before on citizens manning the Burmese pavilions during travel and tourism fairs in some capital cities around the world, there was nothing like seeing it in their own milieu and at close range.
From the Murraya tree, cut into small blocks and later ground in circular or linear motions on a stone, this cosmetic-of-sorts, which pleasantly smells like sandalwood, is used for both beautification and health. Many were dressed in longyi, the traditional garb of a long, cylindrical piece of cloth, similar to the Muslim malong, which is cleverly tucked – sans buttons, belts or zippers – in several distinct ways. Available in a wide array of colors and patterns, I brought home a couple and have worn it on occasion to unwind.
Soon dominating the landscape – a la the Eiffel Tower in Paris, or the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon – though still far at a distance and seemingly perched among the low clouds – was a huge rock formation made dark green with trees, an icon of history and heritage that is both impressive and mesmerizing.
After lunch at the 50-room Mount Popa Resort, where we were served perhaps the most memorable midday meal we have had during the entire trip, we relished and reveled, from the lodge’s expansive veranda, the awesome inspiring view of what was in store for us.
At the foot of the pilgrimage site, we encountered multiple statues of Nats, sacred spirits who, according to our able guide, began their lives as members of the aristocracy and who later died a green death, described as “gruesome and primal.” They are prayed over by residents as patrons for specific causes.
Accompanied by a not-so-playful and wily band of macaque monkeys, we struggled to ascend – barefoot at that – the steep stairway of 777 steps, with an occasional rest to catch our breath while we feasted our eyes on the many stalls along the way, to finally reach the Olympus of Myanmar – Mount Popa.
The Monastery of Taung Kalat, said to be the home of the religion’s 37 Great Nats, where the locals silently pay homage and offer flowers and trinkets, is a perfect site for inner peace through enlightening meditation and personal devotion.
That night, with the full moon keeping watch, we slept with a smile on our faces as we crossed yet another item off our bucket list.
The next day, we made our way to the village of Mi Nan Thu, where one feels most welcomingly transported to a world of utter simplicity.
Several idyllic scenarios leaped forth: tropical-setting wooden houses, communal water wells as the townsfolk, in all calmness, cooked, washed and kept an eye on babies and toddlers. Women weavers, while they roll up leaves for a relaxing smoke, attempt to sell fabric in vibrant colors. Interestingly enough, a peek into the everything-is-open homes brings back the busy outside world of today, with televisions blaring out pop shows.
And yet, its laid-back environs are not spared from the touch of their lineage and legacy, as temples still dot the area.
Next on our itinerary was the Ever Stand Lacquerware Workshop, with a charmingly confident man of an owner, who sported a memorable mustache. He spoke English well, which is a relative rarity, and declared that emperors and kings, premiers and presidents and mega-tycoons are among his visitors. And without any delay or hesitation, he proudly displayed his photograph with United States President Barack Obama.
The quality of their craftsmanship goes beyond trinketry and souvenirs, for they have established their own reputation in Myanmar’s world of arts and culture. This, we have witnessed among the talented artisans at work in the shop.
We soon found ourselves immersed in the marketplace, where one feels the authentic pulse of the locals.
The produce is similar to those in other Asian countries, from the mounds of fresh fruits and vegetables, pyramids of eggs stacked gingerly, fresh meats and poultry on flat bamboo trays, alongside merchants selling folk medicine and general everyday supplies. We noticed an enormous pile of handcrafted ceramics and pottery, lying almost indifferently among the fray, yet some were strikingly fine and prettily made.
Carinderia-style eating stalls were situated in the heart of the bustling trade, with staples and favorites such as unnamed soups, stews, noodles, vegetable wraps and, of course, rice.
We ended the day by taking a relaxing sunset cruise aboard an elongated roofless banca on the Irrawady River, one of Asia’s most important bodies of water as it traverses the country from north to south.
Endearing scenes – more like a tableau – of rustic beauty awaited us along the banks – the fishermen with bamboo rods to snatch a meal, women folk who attended to dirty clothes, young boys who jumped from wooden rafts into the water and a herd of cattle out for a drink from the river.
From this fluvial vantage point, we could not help but gaze once again at the temples, which by now we conceded are as much a part of their panorama as the trees and boulders.
Finally, we made our way back to our home of choice – the Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort, complete with cabañas, balconies and lounges, spread over a vast estate, dotted with huge trees, surrounded by a well-maintained pagoda garden full of flowers.
The hideaway boasts of various attractions and activities, such as the Meditation Pavilion which serves as a spa, offering therapies from a collection of cultural influences. It is proud of its boutique with traditional arts and crafts by nationally known Burmese artists.
Unique and fun ventures may be arranged, such as to indulge oneself with a Myanmar Royal Dinner – a candlelit meal of fine dishes, and if it is to your liking, one can even wear a replica of the Bagan royal costume!
Almost in front of the resort driveway one finds the Kaladha Koon Monastery Complex. Adhering to faithful reconstruction, a feeling of nostalgia pervades throughout the old and restored structures, proof that there is simply no escape from the temples that have shape the landscape which, from an ancient civilization, created one of the world’s most magical destinations.