MARKET FRESH

H omegrown accessories designer Ken Samudio is no stranger to the fashion industry. After all, with his eponymous label garnering praise and recognition from institutions like Vogue Italia, Pitti Immagine, Business of Fashion, and even London Fashion Week’s International Fashion Showcase festival, it’s safe to say that the former biologist and university professor has definitely proven his exceptional talent and flair for design. And the fact that his internationally acclaimed label stems from a social entrepreneurship (he provides jobs to disadvantaged women by hiring them as artisans) that champions local craftsmanship and environmental awareness makes this inspiring venture even more impressive.

For spring/summer 2016, Samudio continues to enthrall with a new collection for diffusion line Matthew & Melka. Here, color and texture take center stage as ethnic and sustainable materials are given an undeniably cool twist. From recycled jute sack clutches with hand-embroidered fruits and Benguet-sourced bamboo minaudières beaded with punchy comic book onomatopoeia to multicolored geometric necklaces and embellished drop earrings, his newest offerings for the range are cheeky, fresh, and proudly Filipino.

YStyle sits down with the globally renowned designer and takes a kaleidoscopic look at his vibrant summertime collection for Matthew & Melka.

YSTYLE: Tell us about Matthew & Melka. How did it come about?

KEN SAMUDIO: Launched in 2009, my diffusion line Matthew & Melka actually started way ahead of my eponymous label, which was born two years later. At the time, headpieces were all the rage so I started with quirky versions of the ontrend accessory. My designs piqued the interest of showbiz personality Mariel Rodriquez Padilla and soon, other celebrity clients followed suit. Now, the brand constitutes 60 percent of my company’s total sales.

Matthew & Melka is named after my kids — Matthew, who is now 10 years old, and Melka, who is 16 years old.

How is it different from the Ken Samudio line?

With a special emphasis on craftsmanship and sustainability, the Ken Samudio brand promotes ecological preservation and awareness via accessories that double as art. It’s positioned for the international market, with product prices ranging from US$600 to $1,200.

On the other hand, Matthew & Melka is positioned for the local market and targets consumers in their teens and twenties. Fun, kitschy, and reasonably priced, I consider this brand to be my creative therapy as it allows me to freely play around with different colors, materials, and inspirations. What’s especially distinct about this line is that I use traditional artisanal techniques and give it a contemporary twist to appeal to the younger set.

What inspired your s/s 2016 collection?

For my latest collection, I took inspiration from the bustling streets of Manila. While Divisoria fruit vendors and Dangwa florists inspired my fruit and flower-embroidered designs, the main inspiration for my pop art clutch is the graffiti I see all over the Metro.

How did you become an accessory designer?

It was a big leap of faith for me because it’s not something I planned or was trained for. I originally wanted to become a painter and have even won painting competitions here and abroad. However, my parents discouraged me from pursuing art and urged me to become a doctor instead, with the reasoning that artists do not earn a decent living. I complied and finished school with a Biology degree specializing in Marine biodiversity but when my father passed away, I realized that my thirst for creativity just wouldn’t let me be. I started making accessories and sold them online while still working as a biologist and college professor during the day. Surprisingly, my small side business grew and soon, I started to earn more from it than from my biology work. I took it as a sign to quit my day job and the rest, as they say, is history.

Do you have any accessory designers that you admire?

I admire the creations of Tokyo-based artist Atsuko Sasaki (@akotane on Instagram); she takes raw felted wool and turns it into absolutely stunning works of art. I’m also in awe of Valentino accessories. It’s impressive how the Italian fashion house is able to combine both artistic integrity and commercial viability in their designs.

What are the pros and cons of being an accessory designer in the local fashion industry?

The best thing about being an accessory designer here in the Philippines is that there’s less competition, especially when compared to women’s fashion design. Another advantage is that we have an extensive range of materials indigenous to our country. The ingenious use of locally sourced materials can instantly set your designs apart from foreign labels and can thus help propel your career in the international stage.

On the downside, there is a clear lack of support from the government not just in terms of finances but also in resources, specifically mentorship and guidance from the right people. I believe that to better improve the state of the local industry, the government should utilize the help of experts who are equipped with the proper knowledge on the ins and outs of the fashion business. The lack of a global platform to showcase the works of homegrown designers is also another hindrance for growth. Being a designer in the Philippines is a one-man show. Any help that we can get from the government or private sector can greatly increase our chances to succeed both locally and internationally.