Bryan Francisco

We talk to Kapeng Mainit’s chef, poised as the breakout of the year, about his go-to places when he craves something good

“The next big thing”.

That’s a lot of pressure on a young man, a chef just finding his footing in the highly competitive Philippine culinary scene. But Bryan Francisco is up to the challenge. He’s full of promise, blessed with innate talent, and brimming with passion and a very clear vision for his cuisine.

The former Pastry Chef de Partie of Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro and Bakery in Las Vegas learned that cooking is an act of service first and foremost: that as cooks, they must feed people with good food: “Cooking really, is about making people happy. I wanted my first concept to do just that: make people happy. Nothing fancy, no fuss, no over the top dishes, just good simple food.”

Remember that FPJ film, Walang Matigas na Tinapay sa Kapeng Mainit? That’s where the name comes from; it was suggested by Bryan’s brother and business partner, Ron. The core concept behind the restaurant, open since late 2015 along Tropical Avenue in BF Homes, is that of a “Modern Tapsilogan” with Filipino comfort food, rice bowls, and a tiny pastry shop. The “Tapa 2.0”, which comes with kimchi rice, a perfectly poached egg, and salsa and the Chicken Tocino with sinigang rice have become the bestsellers. Every beautifully composed bowl is a play on myriad flavors: sweet, salty, bitter, sour, and umami.

But when Kapeng Mainit first opened, churros were the hottest thing in the local culinary scene; so to keep up with the “crispy fried dough” trend, yet remain unique, Francisco decided to offer something he’d learned and mastered in Bouchon. Beignets, those French deep fried donut-like pocket pastries famous in New Orleans. But there had to be an innovation, so Francisco decided to stuff them with thick, rich, deliciously gooey fillings: salted egg, chocolate, salted caramel, and the most popular so far, matcha. Crunchy pillow-like pastries overflowing with luxurious syrupy lusciousness? The beignets became instant hits. Social media drove its popularity, and soon, curious fans from the north were driving down to the south to try them.

Kapeng Mainit has since received so many rave reviews, so much so that it will soon have to move out of the original small space that it has outgrown, and move to a bigger location also inside BF Homes. That’s the kind of thing that happens to truly talented chefs. Often, there’s so much buzz, so much to share, so much good food to introduce, that the market forces them to leave their comfort zones sooner than expected. That’s exactly what’s happening to Bryan Francisco. At 25 years old, this chef is all set to break out.

What are your favorite restaurants in the Philippines?

That’s a tricky question. My craving for food depends on the season, my mood and budget. However, it would have to be Healthy Shabu-Shabu and Nihonbashetei. First has to be shabu-shabu. I have been eating in Healthy Shabu-Shabu Rockwell since 2004 almost 12 years already. I usually order the sirloin set with extra egg noodles and meat balls, if I wasn’t watching my diet, or the vegetable set with extra noodles. It’s the dipping sauce which keeps me coming back and I love noodles, and did I mention it’s “healthy”

In Nihonbashitei, I like sitting at the bar ordering spicy tuna sashimi—extra spicy, wakame soba, and a glass of cold tea. That to me is a comforting meal.

What dish do you love cooking for your own enjoyment?

I love cooking breakfast for my own. There’s something magical with fried eggs, lightly burned tomatoes & bacon, with a piece of monay toasted on the juices of the tomatoes & bacon fat and a cup of coffee to start your day.

My personal favorite would be pasta. Nothing fancy just fettuccine sautéed with tomatoes, fish (tuyo or left over fish), olive oil, garlic and a piece of bread is a personal favorite.