A reunion with two saints
So recently during a brief stopover in Rome, I took a planned detour to The Vatican, for I wished to set my eyes on two new main additions since my last visit, a reunion with two saints, who I still had recollections of from past pilgrimages.
Pope Saint John XXIII, who I followed throughout the Second Vatican Council days, which addressed relations of and within the Catholic Church in answer to the needs and demands of the modern world, and Pope Saint John Paul II, who I had the privilege to see up-close, when he canonized San Lorenzo Ruiz de Manila, our country’s first.
With just a modest half square kilometer in area, I immediately zeroed in on The Holy See, determined to ignore any distractions along the way whatsoever. But I failed miserably, as I succumbed the moment I stepped onto the expanse of the Piazza San Pietro.
Immediately swept away by a memorable overwhelming feeling of familiarity – the vast grounds, surrounded by the towering, imposing symmetrical columns, as well as the majestic fountains and lamp posts, which seem to be larger than life – I was taken aback and joined the holidaymakers that filled the area, where they stopped to appreciate the breathtaking view. Yes, each encounter always carries several surprises.
I then noticed a long line of devotees and tourists alike, neatly queued in front of a sign which read out Porta Sancta, the Holy Door. I likewise took the rare chance to traverse the sacred passageway, which is only open during certain Jubilee milestone years as designated by the pope. In October 2015, Pope Francis broke usual tradition and designated local cathedrals, churches and chapels throughout the whole world as Holy Doors.
It is said that completing certain tasks and passing through the entrance will grant plenary indulgences, which is a way of penitence. After my religious mission at the portals around Metro Manila during the last Black Saturday – sans traffic – it was poetically apt to finally conclude the year-long commemoration from where it all began.
I soon found myself walking along with an excited but hushed flow of both believers and the curious, as we all entered the revered place of prayer, none other than The Basilica of Saint Peter.
We were immediately greeted by a familiar sight: Michelangelo’s Pieta. The sculpture made out of Carrara marble depicts the body of Jesus on the lap of Mother Mary after the Crucifixion. It is the only opus that the High Renaissance artist has ever signed.
Inquisitive first-timers have flocked and inched their way before the masterpiece, which is now fronted by plexiglass. Though regretfully we did not get as close as we wanted, we could still admire the classical beauty of the obra even at a distance – and it was as magnificent as ever.
As I wandered along, the iconic statue of Saint Peter caught my attention. The right foot of the first pope has eroded, due to the constant and continued touch over the years of petitioners for an answered favor.
In no time at all, the Grand Altar stood before me, with rays of the noon sun magically shining upon it.
I then realized that I have been almost everywhere – except for the exact reasons for this particular visit!
So we asked for directions, and were directly led to the glass coffin of Pope Saint John XXIII, whose corpse was preserved with a wax coat. It has been described that the saint’s body was exhumed – 38 years after his death – only to be revealed as still mostly intact.
My final intention was Pope Saint John Paul II, whose remains were enclosed inside a white marble tomb.
As expected, there were several devotees kneeling and praying to both santos. I paid my own respects with whispered prayers.
Upon exit, I instinctively headed to the nearby Mosaic Capriotti Emporium, to update myself with my decadeslong trusted supplier of select religious objects, such as medals and rosaries, scapulars and devotional pendants,
stampitas and novenas, pamphlets and prayer books, crucifixes and statues.
I loaded up on my gear, passed by several newsstands and little shops which displayed images of the everpopular Pope Francis on magazine and book covers, and drove away – with my soul lighter, while a warm sensation enveloped me, which was a call back to previous times when these two vicars of Christ have aided and guided me – to once again converge into the afternoon traffic of The Eternal City.