A taste of nostalgia at Ramon Lee’s Panciteria
Tucked away along the cobbled streets of Santa Cruz, Manila’s forgotten premier financial and luxury district, is a humble panciteria that has managed to withstand the test of time. While the surrounding area may have already lost its glamour, the 88- year- old Ramon Lee’s Panciteria has persevered over the years, armed with enduring flavors of authenticity and nostalgia that have captured the hearts of loyal patrons and, to a certain extent, the newer generation.
It was named after its migrant founder, Ramon Lee, who came from Canton, China in the early 1920s to work in the food industry as a waiter. However, it wasn’t until 1929 that he and his wife, Wong Yok King, decided to open their own restaurant situated on Ronquillo Street near Rizal Avenue.
At the time, locals craving authentic Chinese fare headed towards panciterias, which often offered traditional Chinese cuisine and, sometimes, Spanish and Filipino dishes as well.
Ramon Lee’s Panciteria rose above the ranks for its famed fried chicken and pancit
canton and lumpia recipes, quickly becoming a favorite among early diners, including former President Ferdinand Marcos during his student days.
“Almost all the dishes were products of my mother’s secret recipes. The fried chicken, especially, was her specialty,” said Fely Lee, daughter of Ramon and the current owner of the panciteria.
In the 1960s, fried chicken was a luxurious treat that only a few Filipinos could afford. As a solution, Ramon introduced the P6 ( at the time!) Fine Meal, a single food order which put together portions of fried chicken, fried rice and pancit bihon on a plate with soup and a banana on the side.
Ramon Lee’s Panciteria’s Fine Meal was the first in Metro Manila to introduce the combo meal/ platter, which many fast- food joints and restaurants have now adopted in their menus.
As time went by, the panciteria really started gaining traction in the ‘ 70s. Customers came from all over Manila just to sample Ramon Lee’s fried chicken and his newest dishes. Celebrity sightings were common and catering services were a hit.
However, at the restaurant’s prime, Ramon passed away in 1980 and left behind Fely and her nephew Lawrence Co to take over the management of the restaurant.
“Inheriting the restaurant was definitely a big responsibility for me. My only sister, Fay, was a professor in Chiang Kai Shek College at the time, so I was the only one who could really take charge,” said Fely, adding that it was a particularly difficult time for the restaurant with the political and financial turmoil that had plagued the country during the decade.
Despite being a gastronomic phenomenon, the eatery soon faced strong competition amid the rising growth and popularity of fast- food chains in the metro, especially when one opened just down the road from the restaurant.
“We tried to keep up by including trendy food items in our menu such as sizzling
pusit and gambas,” said Fely. “And yet, even after countless interior renovations, including a karaoke area on the second floor, it just wasn’t enough to restore the eatery to its former glory.”
While Ramon Lee’s Panciteria may not be as prominent as it once was, the restaurant’s reputation for its unmatched Chinese dishes has proven that old is indeed gold. Fely has done her best to ensure the panciteria continues to uphold the family tradition of fine service and excellent food.
“The original recipes are all very much in use today and our food tastes exactly the same as it did 50 years ago. In fact, several of our cooks have been working to maintain and perfect the quality of our dishes for more than 40 years now,” she said proudly.
On an ordinary day, middleaged customers and families can be seen at the panciteria, reliving the nostalgia when their parents used to bring them to the restaurant.
“Most of our regular diners are really just people who grew up with the restaurant. We are fortunate the restaurant with its cuisine has become an institution celebrated from generation to generation,” Fely said.
With almost a century of culinary tradition, Ramon Lee’s Panciteria’s authentic Chinese fare is truly a testament that delicious pancit definitely warrants a longer, richer life.