DUBAI: Once upon a time
THERE IS MORE TO DUBAI THAN JUST AMAZING architecture, soaring skyscrapers, colossal hotels and sprawling malls, plus never-ending highways and multilevel spiral junctions full of fast luxury cars.
Behind these marvels of modern technology brought about by mega bucks and the rulers’ will, with the everpresent sand and sun amidst creeping deserts and patches of oases, lies in stark contrast an idyllic hamlet known as Old Dubai.
As in most communities, great civilizations have established roots by nearby waterforms, and the Emirate of Dubai is no exception.
It all began by the saltwater Dubai Creek, originally over a kilometer but today spans a total of 10 kilometers, which formed the nucleus of the venerable city. It initially served as a fishing and pearling area, as well as a gateway for dhows – traditional local sailboats – of merchants and traders from neighboring countries and as far away as India and East Africa, long before the discovery of oil.
Today, this natural wonder, which is almost clear to the bottom sans any litter or pollution, continues to serve as the artery for business and commerce around the world. Scenes of hundreds of types of boats that manually load and unload goods systematically without the assistance of cranes and equipment unfold daily in – for lack of a better term – the traditional port.
We initially bumped into a Bedouin tent, taken after the Arab word badawi which literally means desert dweller, based on the same living quarters used by the nomadic inhabitants of the area.
Thick weaves and animal furs were draped over a wooden framework, and was floored by colorful carpets, rugs and pillows and more pillows – giving it a genuine, lived-in look. A couple of feet away lay an open makeshift cooking area, stocked with basic items such as pots, kettles and skinned hides for water jugs, which simulated the conditions back then. It was so authentic, we expected a family would emerge with their children plus their animals: camels, sheep and goats.
Everything was noticeably built sturdy to withstand the cruel sandstorms, but cognizant of the wandering nature of their ancestors, the entire structure could be disassembled at a moment’s notice to allow movement to a new but likewise temporary settlement.
This seemed to be a teaser for what was to come, for we had just realized that a stone’s throw away was the unassuming façade of the Dubai Museum.
The building was erected in 1787, making it the oldest existing edifice in the entirety of Dubai, while the showroom itself was opened to the public only in the 1970s.
A historic structure filled with audio-video presentations, as well as life-sized dioramas, it aims to present the life of tribes in the district through its featured stories.
Several sculptures – make that life-size depictions – portrayed scenes we could only have imagined: an herb and spice shop, a blacksmith and his apprentice crafting a sword, a tailor busy on his makeshift sewing contraption, a teacher patiently instructing his pupils how to read and young girls celebrating the graduation from a Quran class.
We appreciated the short snippets offered by our guide Mohammed, originally from Egypt but now calls Dubai his home, regarding the Bedoiun craft, the relationship of the desert and the oasis, and especially the stories of the desert at night, where the dunes seem to stand still as residents gather around campfires to eat and share stories.
All these gave Dubai its rich heritage through customs, culture and folklore.
Glass cabinets showcased musical instruments such as pipes, lyre, an assortment of drums and selections of weapons, while the largest scale exhibit focused on life on and by the sea by highlighting local sea species as well as images of a dhow under construction.
Within the area, one could not miss the house of Mohammed Sharif Sultan Al-Ulama, who was the then-commercial judge.
The two-story abode contained traditional columns and arches, as well as decorative gypsum screens. Due to its expert restoration in great meticulous detail, it has won the World Architecture Award given by the World Architectural Community, an outlet which provides a unique environment for architects, academics and students to meet, share and compete.
However, the gem of the home was a courtyard which likewise contained an al sambuk, a relatively small vessel used for fishing, which definitely solidified our impression of the relationship of Old Dubai and its all-important key-to-life creek.
As we exited the premises of the museum, we had just been informed by the on-shift museum guides that we were actually inside the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, commonly called the Bastakiya, which is collectively one of the oldest heritage sites in the city.
A relaxed saunter inside its tall barriers enclosing on us from all sides, through its pristine courtyards, serpentine alleyways and winding labyrinths, made us feel like we just stepped through a portal to centuries past – as if the museum wasn’t enough – which immediately transported us to old Arabia.
We spotted curious turrets with wooden poles horizontally sticking out from certain sides, which we soon learned were wind towers, a Persian architectural element to create natural ventilation in buildings. As I understood it, some hang wet towels in these poles to further cool their homes.
Soon we found ourselves at the Al Fahidi Fort, one of the three old watchtowers which used to be the sentry spot when both sides of the creek were blocked with walls.
We took a detour to the Sheikh Saeed House, which was the official residence of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s grandfather, where the initial vision of modern Dubai was first conceptualized. It served as a glimpse to the environs of the boy who grew up to be their current ruler, while also featuring memorabilia such as coins, stamps and photos which signaled Dubai’s development through the years.
Due to the insistence of Mohammed, we boarded an
abra – a wooden barebones water transportation option of just seats and a roof – and crossed the iconic waterway to disembark on the opposite side where merchants and peddlers abound.
Thirsty for more of the city, we rubbed elbows with residents as we explored the souks, essentially marketplaces of anything and everything imaginable.
Vibrant colors welcomed us as we passed by kiosks of shawls, dresses, bags and other apparel, while our eyes sparkled at the mere sight of what must have been several pounds worth of golden rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets.
However, the most distinctive moment was a sensory overload as we neared the Spice Souk, which carried aromatic prized spices, herbs, dates, nuts, almonds, figs and exotic scents and perfumes.
With heavier shopping bags and wallets considerably lighter, we decided to call it a day, concluding our trip at the Tent Jumeirah Restaurant, a bar and bistro along the highway, whose distinguishing feature was booths and seats shaped like dhows and abras, as well as shacks and tents made out of tree barks, roots and other local vegetation, which all overlooked the adjacent sea.
The restaurant was a quite long drive from Old Dubai, but it still complemented our experience through its traditional vibe. We ordered our choices of never-seen-before drink concoctions, and shared platters of kingfish, spiced crispy chicken, biryani rice and capped the meal with some dried fruits for dessert.
As the sun set and the temperature cooled down, who would have thought that in Dubai, of all places, we would end up by the beach?