The colors of flavor
Amaster of culinary sorcery is how I would describe chef
Josh Boutwood. Everything this man creates is delicious. I first tried his food at his restaurant The Test Kitchen and have been a fan ever since. I love his restaurants Savage and Helm, both located at Arya Residences in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Helm is always full because it only has 10 seats plus only two seatings (6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.) a night. So, I was thrilled to be invited and get to try Josh’s latest menu.
Upon arrival at Helm, I received a color-coded menu that would be the basis of one of the best dinners I would have in my life.
It started with mouthwatering appetizers, two of which I already tried before: smoked milkfish mousse with chili leaf emulsion on a buckwheat tart topped with cheese; and broth of blood clam topped with pandan oil and cilantro oil. The other appetizer was honeydew compressed with pink peppercorns and paired with beef tenderloin cured with rose petals. What followed was house-made brioche paired with cultured butter and topped with Chinese chive oil served with salami and smoked chorizo.
After the scrumptious appetizers came the parade of dishes from the color-coded menu. First out of the kitchen was “black,” which was hot-smoked mussels encased in a squid ink-dashi gel, burnt eggplant puree, black garlic emulsion, mulberry vinegar gel and squid tapioca chips. One would probably think there were too many flavors going on with this dish but everything worked out well. This dish turned out to be one of my favorites for the night.
Served next was “purple,” which was grilled octopus porridge with puffed heirloom rice covered in a film made out of octopus stock and ube.
And then there was “green:” steamed seabass, green pea puree, pistachio nuts, sauce made out of mussel juice and dill oil, green peas tossed in fresh dill, puffed
adlai tossed in lato powder and purslane.
At this point of the dinner, everything my companions and I tried were great. Everything was to our liking.
Next on the menu was “yellow” — poached free-range egg yolk, roasted chicken in annatto oil and lemongrass, espuma of potato infused with kasubha, puffed quinoa, cured egg yolk — which turned out to be my other favorite as the roasted chicken was unbelievably tender and the puffed quinoa gave a contrast biting into the soft egg and potato. I’m not a big fan of beetroot but I liked “red,” with its braised beetroots, cranberries and watermelon topped with cured ox heart, amaranth, red mustard leaves and red cabbage vinegar granita. Josh created two amazing “orange” dishes — Alaskan king crab salad with rye berries tossed in crab fat topped with carrot tops, micro-arugula, cosmos and cadena de amor; and pan-seared coral trout, squash puree, cherry tomatoes blanched and marinated in tomato and curry leaf oil and salmon trout roe. The coral trout went so well with the sauce made with freeze-dried scallops and tapioca pearls, dusted with tomato powder. I was still in food heaven when the “brown” dish was served: roast pork belly with caramelized onion puree, mungbean puree, pickled onion and mustard seeds, topped with chicharon and popped sorghum.
Served next was the “gray” dish, which was braised ox tongue glazed with coconut sap, charred heart of palm, fresh horseradish, puffed black rice, fried beef tendons, sesame seeds and mustard leaf ash. Honestly, I can’t usually stand eating ox tongue because it makes me squirm. But the flavors Josh prepared for this dish was wonderful that I did not regret eating it.
There were three colors for dessert: “pink,” which was three textures of dragonfruit — sorbet made with pomelo wrapped in a strawberry kuzu dumpling; gel made with mascarpone cheese and meringue dusted with powder from dehydrated strawberries; “blue” ternate ice cream with blueberries macerated in vinegar and thyme, blueberry yoghurt gel, blue velvet sponge, topped with blue velvet crisp and dried blue ternates; and “white” coconut pandan mousse with palm nut, dried macapuno and buko ice. Among the desserts, “blue” was definitely my favorite.
Dinner didn’t end with those delectable desserts as petit fours still arrived: ube cream puff filled with halaya; white peach jelly topped with fresh mint and shiso leaves; and chocolate
pastillas with roasted white chocolate. Josh capped the night by serving the limited quantity single-origin dark roast coffee from Sagada, one he recommended taking without sugar.
I cannot do justice describing how all these wonderful dishes were. This dinner is really not to be missed. The menu can be paired with wine as well and will only be available until March 21. Do try to get a seat at Helm to experience one of the best meals you can have in Manila. (Helm is located at the ground floor of Arya Residences, McKinley Parkway, Taguig City. For inquiries and reservations, call 0906-2341900. Check out www.joshboutwood.com.ph.)