Philippine cacao: A Pinoy pride
Cacao, the evergreen tree that gives us cacao beans, otherwise known as the food of the gods, has so much more to offer than cocoa powder or chocolate.
In the Philippines, the 2016-2022 Philippine Cacao Roadmap developed by the Department of Agriculture’s Bureau of Plant Industry (BPI), hoped to establish a more competitive and sustainable cacao industry.
This is because the Philippines’ location 20 degrees near the equator is actually conducive for cacao production. The cacao tree grows around the “cacao belt”, straddling some Southeast Asian countries, Central and South American countries, and West Africa. By 2020, global demand for cacao is predicted to reach five million metric tons, but a one million MT shortage is also expected.
Wit Holganza, a cacao grower from Davao for almost a decade, affirms the potential of the Philippine cacao industry to contribute to the world’s demand for cacao but sheds light on the equally compelling opportunities that lie within the country.
“There are two opportunities – export our fine flavor beans, or add value for domestic consumption. I am taking the second option for several reasons. Currently, domestic consumption is at 28 percent. The average consumption globally is only five percent,” Holganza said, adding that, at present, the business is already within the country because of Filipinos’ undeniable great love for chocolate.
“We have cacao producers that export to small continents, for artisan and craft chocolate producers. I think it’s for the better since producing chocolate out of fine cacao is a craft. Many commercial chocolate manufacturers would mix cacao beans from different sources, whether fermented or not fermented, and add in a lot of sugar, emulsifiers, and all these compounds that you can’t taste the real chocolate anymore,” she said.
Ironically, cacao-processing technologies needed to make chocolates are mostly located in cacao bean importing countries such as Europe and North America. Most cacao-producing countries like the Philippines lack these facilities.
“Equipment to make chocolate is expensive. This is why local producers make artisan products in small batches and costs are higher because they’re handcrafted. But that’s what makes our chocolates special – you know they’re done with great care and their source of cacao beans is most likely single-origin,” Holganza said.
Pinoy pride
Philippine-made cacao products and chocolates take a modest standing in terms of popularity among its more mainstream, imported counterparts. They’re usually seen in bazaars or in specialty stores but many attest to their exceptionally delicious taste sparking Pinoy pride in every bite.
One of these is Wit’s Sweets and Savouries, a line-up of homemade, artisanal cacao goodies that is proud of its distinctly Pinoy heritage. They are made with Holganza’s family-grown cacao, combined with other locallysourced ingredients from fellow farmers. Their bestseller is the energy and mood boosting Cacao Granola.
“We wanted to offer something different and healthy. Oat is healthy and you can use it in so many ways. So we thought of granola,” she said.
The product blends in Pinoy ingredients that balance the flavors and make them addicting. There’s a yellow mango granola called Tasty, the green mango granola called Tangy, the yellow mango with chilli called Spiced Granola, and a ginger-flavoured one called Zesty. They have two seasonal offers the Durian Granola and Coffee Granola.
They also have the renowned healthy snack called Cacao Nibs that comes in natural coconut sugar, muscovado sugar, and sugar-free options; the cacao clusters are cacao beans generously coated with 75 percent spiced or kaffir lime. And as a perfect soothing ending to meals, the Tableya is available which is made from 100 percent pure single estate cacao.
As an agriculturalist and cacao doctor by heart, Holganza is proud not only of their products’ quality taste, their distinctly Philippine origin, but also by how they’re produced with so much love and care for the environment.
“If you see the environmental impact of the food we eat and where it comes from, you realize that we are better off growing our own food in our small containers. This has direct correlation to the products we sell. It’s our commitment to use locally-sourced ingredients as much as we can, Holganza said.”
Josh Holganza, her son who handles the company’s operations, agrees with the appeal of single-origin, homemade food to today’s increasingly discerning consumers.
“I think more and more people are now conscious of what they eat. They want to know where it came from, and how it’s grown and who produced them. It’s not just about the cost or the taste anymore, but if they’re helping farmers or a community, and the product is high quality, then it’s more meaningful to keep on buying them,” he said.