Town & Country (Philippines) - - CONTENTS / SEPTEMBER DEPARTMENTS - By Pierre A. Calasanz

An­thony Vac­carello’s sopho­more col­lec­tion for Saint Lau­rent.

Acu­ri­ous trend is sweep­ing across fash­ion houses on both sides of the At­lantic. Re­cently Burberry, Bot­tega Veneta, and Calvin Klein started com­bin­ing their men’s run­way shows with those for their women’s col­lec­tions. In this year’s fall-win­ter show,

Saint Lau­rent fol­lowed suit with a strong 100-plus piece col­lec­tion, but here’s the thing: only 14 en­sem­bles were for men.

For those who’ve fol­lowed the ca­reer of An­thony Vac­carello, the fash­ion house’s 35-year-old cre­ative di­rec­tor, it wasn’t re­ally much of a sur­prise, as he’s al­ways been more rec­og­nized for his cre­ations for women. Born in Brus­sels to Ital­ian par­ents, he stud­ied sculp­ture for a year in col­lege be­fore shift­ing to fash­ion. “What re­ally in­ter­ested me was the con­struc­tion of the clothes. The ar­chi­tec­ture of de­sign­ing,” he ex­plained. Shortly af­ter grad­u­at­ing, he at­tracted the at­ten­tion of fash­ion heavy­weights Karl Lager­feld and Donatella Ver­sace as well as top mod­els Lou Doil­lon and Anja Ru­bik, the lat­ter his long­stand­ing muse. He took over as Saint Lau­rent’s cre­ative di­rec­tor in April 2016.

Ver­sace once said that Vac­carello “likes black” and “likes rock,” and the pieces in the cur­rent men’s col­lec­tion bear this out, as the stand­out en­sem­bles were in black, black, and more black from head to toe, with a def­i­nite rock ’n’ roll vibe. With a lim­ited num­ber of looks, Vac­carello seems to be say­ing men only need to throw a few ba­sic pieces to­gether to get through the sea­son. The essentials for cooler weather in­clude a short, boxy leather jacket, a gor­geous suede avi­a­tor jacket, and a versatile turtle­neck (a fa­vorite, of course, of the la­bel’s founder). An­other piece you can throw over prac­ti­cally any­thing is the trench coat, which Vac­carello tai­lors smartly with­out em­bel­lish­ment or showy de­tails. Who needs the ex­tra at­ten­tion when you’re in a pair of shiny patent leather pants any­way? While that look may suit a younger de­mo­graphic, Saint Lau­rent pro­vides sub­tler trouser choices for more tra­di­tional cus­tomers. Vac­carello jazzes those up, none­the­less, with mod­ern cuts. A num­ber of de­signs sit low on the waist, and he al­lows gen­er­ous amounts of fab­ric to con­certina on the an­kles. For men who’ve worn their pants ex­tra-short the past cou­ple of sea­sons, this may take some get­ting used to, so a pair with shorter hems is also avail­able—and this goes per­fectly with the im­pec­ca­bly con­structed tux, an­other musthave in a gen­tle­man’s closet.

Vac­carello’s rock-chic aes­thetic car­ries over to the men’s ready to wear col­lec­tion, es­pe­cially in the T-shirts with un­der­stat­edly cool prints. (That’s how it’s done, Jen­ner sis­ters.) Var­sity jack­ets, polo shirts, and even hood­ies pep­per the RTW line, pos­si­bly sig­ni­fy­ing the in­tent to pull a younger yet af­flu­ent au­di­ence, and there’s a very good chance Saint Lau­rent will do just that.

Shangri-La Plaza East Wing, So­laire and Rus­tan’s Makati; @ssil­ifeph on In­sta­gram.

youNG GuNS clock­wise: A model in the mo­hair turtle­neck sweater and faux patent leather pants; ringer t-shirt in cot­ton jersey; Joe mid-top sneak­ers; co­gnac suede jean jacket and gabar­dine trousers; an­tique leather avi­a­tor jacket and gray flan­nel...

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