TABLE WINES MADE IN MADEIRA
Far from the world fame of the fortified wines, Madeiran table wines have come to earn their space and affirm themselves in the market
Longe da fama mundial dos vinhos fortificados, os vinhos de mesa madeirenses têm vindo a conquistar espaço e a afirmar-se no mercado
When the topic is wine from Madeira, the commonplace is to think about the fortified wines that have spread the island's fame far and wide. But this region also produces still and sparkling wines.
But the difference in figures is expressive. Table wines represent only 4% of the almost 4 million litres produced on the island annually. In 2020, 140 thousand litres were produced, and 76 thousand bottled.
Created in 1999, as part of the Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Crafts Institute, Adega de São Vicente ensures most of the support to 10 of the 14 producers. Part of that job is the responsibility of oenologist João Pedro Machado. 'Nowadays, there are more than 20 references that are produced in this cellar', he explains. Without the cellar, 'PDO Madeira wines and IGP Terras Madeirenses wines surely would not enjoy the expression or national, sometimes international fame they enjoy'.
Be they table or fortified wines, one of the distinguishing features of Madeiran wines is their natural acidity which comes from the volcanic nature of the soil, rich in organic matter. 'This acidity allows for the wines to have a very positive evolution throughout the years'. It is this freshness that also allows for 'the island of Madeira to have conditions for the production of sparkling wines'.
The mineral quality of Madeiran wines also accounts for the 'Atlantic influence to which grapes are subject'. In some cases, when the grapes are nearer the coast, one can tell 'a hint of saltiness', explains the winemaker.
Quando se trata de falar de vinhos na Madeira, a ideia comum é pensar nos fortificados, que deram fama mundial à ilha. Mas esta região também produz vinhos tranquilos e espumantes.
Mas a diferença nos números é expressiva. Os vinhos de mesa representam apenas 4% dos quase 4 milhões de litros produzidos na Madeira anualmente. Em 2020 foram produzidos 140 mil litros e engarrafados 76 mil.
Criada em 1999, como parte do Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, a Adega de São Vicente assegura grande parte do apoio a 10 dos 14 produtores existentes. Parte desse trabalho é responsabilidade do enólogo João Pedro Machado. “Atualmente já são mais de 20 referências que são produzidas nesta adega”, explica. Sem a adega “os vinhos DOP Madeirenses e IGP Terras Madeirenses, seguramente não teriam a expressão que atualmente apresentam e o reconhecimento Nacional, e em alguns casos internacional”.
Sejam de mesa ou licorosos, uma das grandes características que distingue os vinhos madeirenses é a acidez natural que resulta da natureza vulcânica dos solos, ricos em matéria orgânica. “Esta acidez permite que estes vinhos tenham uma evolução muito positiva ao longo dos anos.” É esta frescura que permite, também que “a ilha da Madeira tenha condições para a produção de espumantes”.
A “mineralidade” dos vinhos madeirenses também se explica pela “influência Atlântica a que as uvas estão sujeitas”. Em alguns casos, em que as uvas estão mais junto à costa, consegue-se notar “um caráter salino”, explica o enólogo.
Table wines in Madeira represent a recent history, about 3 decades old, and the production has come to increase specially in the last 10 years. Initially met with scepticism, they have evolved in quality and diversity, says João Pedro Machado. The selection of wines is more selective and there has been more care in balancing quality with quantity. 'Specially in the case of red and rose wines, their good evolution is equally due to the age of the vines of red grapes because the majority is already in an "adult" stage and at the height of production'.
In Adega de São Vicente, care and investment have also been on the rise and the cooperation with producers has become more intense, for them to opt for a harvest with 'smaller and more homogeneous batches', that allow for the production of different wines: 'One of the great pillars of wine quality is the respect for the attributes of the grape, producing wines that show that are wines from Madeira'. João Pedro Machado acknowledges there is space to evolve, be it in oenology, be it in viticulture.
Madeira's climate, remarkably different in the north and South coasts, helps the diversity of wines. The climate is subtropical in the South coast and mild in the north coast. This fact leads to a 'different behaviour of the grapes', explains the winemaker. 'If the basis is one and the same grape variety, in which the conduction system and cultural practices are similar, ageing in the south coast will likely result in more alcohol content, with less acidity and a better realized phenolic maturation. In the north, one can expect fresher, more acidic wines, with more delicate aromas and slightly not as expressive'.
Adding to the differences, in Madeira there is also 'an enormous richness in microclimates responsible for an even greater variability of quality and attributes of the grapes produced on those sites'.
Amongst white wines, the Verdelho grape variety is the one that sticks out, often in batches with other grape varieties, like the Arnsburguer, or the Fine Malmsey. 'There are also some batches that integrate the Sercial grape variety', adds João Pedro Machado.
Os vinhos de mesa na Madeira representam uma história recente, de cerca de 3 décadas e a produção tem vinho a aumentar sobretudo nos últimos 10 anos. Inicialmente recebidos com ceticismo, têm evoluído, na qualidade e diversidade, considera João Pedro Machado. A seleção das vinhas é mais criteriosa e tem havido mais cuidado no equilíbrio entre a qualidade e a quantidade. “Sobretudo no caso dos vinhos tintos e rosados a sua boa evolução deve-se igualmente à idade das cepas de castas tintas, pois na sua grande maioria já se encontram numa fase ‘adulta’ e em plena produção”.
Também na Adega de São Vicente os cuidados e investimentos feitos têm aumentado e o