Bairro Alto

There is a neighbourhood like this in every city: semidecadent but bohemian and full of little gems. In Lisbon, that neighbourhood is Bairro Alto.

EAT

The alleys of this otherwise typical neighbourhood are packed with tourist-trap restaurants. If it is traditional and authentic food you are after, find a tasca (tavern) with tables clad in paper tablecloths and settle in. Adega das Mercês borrows its name from the street it lives on and its selection of dishes from Minho (a region in the north of Portugal). There, you will find both arroz de cabidela (giblets rice) and bacalhau à minhota (Minho-style cod).à Travessa das Mercês, 2. Mon-Sat midday-3pm & 7pm-midnight.

DRINK

Bairro Alto is defined by night buzz, and it has a lively atmosphere every night of the week. Lose yourself in the crisscross of alleyways and pop into some of the quarter’s hallmarks like the cosy Maria Caxuxa (Rua da Barroca, 6-12) or Clube da Esquina (Rua da Barroca, 30), with doors and windows opening out onto the street.

SHOP

In the heart of Bairro Alto, Charade isn’t just another second-hand clothes shop. It’s a meeting point for international brands epitomising the purest of vintage 40s and 50s styles. We’re talking about the golden age of poodle skirts, silk scarves, cat eye glasses and rock 'n' roll. → Rua da Rosa, 212. Tue-Fri 3pm-7pm and Sat 2pm-7pm.

DO

Is it a bar? A gig venue? An art gallery? Yes, yes and yes. Zé dos Bois is lodged in an old palace and it certainly is all of the above, and more. Created by an artist collective in 1994, it is a hub for alternative and explorative music and emerging art. They serve drinks and host rooftop events as well as gigs, DJ sets, plays and dance performances. They also have a fish tank, and endless good vibes.à Rua da Barroca, 59. + 351 213 430 205. Terraço ZDB: Mon-Thu 6pm-2am & Fri-Sat 6pm-3am. Exhibitions: 6pm-10pm.

Zé dos Bois A SMALL PIECE OF HEAVEN Loud and lively: the two best words to describe Bairro Alto. But there is an oasis of peace and tranquility right in the middle of Rua do Diário de Notícias. It is called Lumiares Hotel & Spa and you don’t need to be a guest to take advantage of its wonders. The spa menu offers irresistible treatment options and uses La Sultane de Saba products exclusively. Both on the fifth floor, the restaurant, Lumni, and the bar have a calm outdoor seating area overlooking the castle and the river. → Rua do Diário do Notícias, 142. +351 211 160 200.

Maria Caxuxa

Charade

ENJOY IN GOOD HANDS If there is one thing that we can expect from Francisco Martins, or Chef Kiko as he is better known, is thinking outside the box. Bold, but true to his philosophy as a world traveller, what Kiko does at his new restaurant is combine Mexican and Japanese cuisine. At Las dos Manos the chef respects Mexican classics but adds some Japanese touches. This relaxed, attractive restaurant is decorated not only with cactuses but also old sake barrels. The walls are lined with blue tiles painted with figures by the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and of a Japanese geisha. → Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, 59. + 351 215 897 269. Mon-Sun midday11pm.