Baixa Chiado
This neighbourhood in the heart of the city is one of the most touristic of the bunch. Still, it is worth facing the tourist crowds and exploring the best of what Baixa and Chiado have to offer.
EAT
Unfortunately for the majority of the population, A Taberna da Rua das Flores hasn’t taken bookings since their second day in business, so for a few years now. And it has since had a constant queue outside, for lunch and dinner. During daylight hours, try traditional recipes like meia-desfeita (chickpeas with cod) and iscas com elas (with bovine liver); during artificial light hours, there is a variety of
Portuguese dishes and delicacies, which the chef creates daily, using seasonal and available ingredients brought to him by trusted producers. → Rua das Flores, 103. +351 213 479 418. Mon-Sat midday-4pm & 5pm-midnight.
DRINK
Have you been incessantly told about the wonders of Portuguese wine? By the Wine has a ceiling lined with over three thousand bottles and it is one of the best wine bars in town – it also won’t disappoint if you’re feeling peckish, as you can nibble on cheese and charcuterie boards. → Rua das Flores, 41/43. +351 213 420 319. Mon-Fri 7pm-midnight & Sat-Sun 1pm-midnight.
SHOP
From the past and from Porto, we’re glad it came to make Lisbon prettier and more fragrant. Claus Porto is 136 years old and has recently settled in Chiado, into a finely decorated space where the windows are always striking, and men can get an old-style shave with only house products. If you want to take a sophisticated souvenir home with you, this perfume, soap, cologne and cream brand is your jam. → Rua da Misericórdia, 135. +351 917 215 855. Every day 10am-8pm.
DO
It’s worth including an itinerary of the city’s best viewpoints while you’re here – and some of them are indeed in Chiado and Baixa. From São Pedro de Alcântara, you can see from Marquês de Pombal all the way to the Tagus. The kiosk has warm blankets available for cooler days and music to liven up frozen souls. Going up to Arco da Rua Augusta is also mandatory, as you’ll have unique views of Baixa, Terreiro do Paço and the river. And if the tourist queues put you off taking the Santa Justa lift, opt for Terraços do Carmo and sit back in Topo Chiado with a good cocktail in hand and a view of the castle.
DANCE LIKE THE
ROYALS
If the 18th-century aristocracy had danced to the sound of house and deep house music, this is where they would have gone. In Palácio Chiado, you can eat in the restaurant and move on to the SALLA bar on the ground floor to listen to music and have a drink. There are signature cocktails like The Darkest Hour (€14), with San Cosme Mescal, Bulleit Bourbon Whiskey, lime, egg white, orange, red chilli, salt, black pepper and sugar, or La Vie en Rose (€12), with Tanqueray Gin No. Ten, rose petals, sugar, lemon, Martini Bianco and Bitter Truth Violet Liqueur. The dances are held from Thursday to Saturday from 9pm to 2am. → Rua do Alecrim, 70. Sun-Wed 12.30pm-4pm & 7pm-midnight, Thu-Sat 12.30pm-4 pm & 7pm-2am.