Cais do Sodré

The most bohemian neighbourhood in town has a pink street full of lively bars that are open seven days (or nights, we should say) a week. But there is life by daylight in Cais do Sodré too.

EAT

Burgers, pizzas, steaks, cod... Time Out Market is the first market in the world where everything has been tried and tested by an independent specialist panel – TO journalists and critics – and options for eating well abound (read more on pages 54-59). After being closed due to the pandemic, it reopened better - and sweater - then ever. One of their newest tenants is Crush Doughnuts, from the same owners of Ground Burger who are also at the market, and they are quite possibly the most beautiful doughnuts you will ever see. Doesn’t hurt that they are delicious too. There’s a new TO Bar as well, for all your cocktail needs. But if you’d rather the comfort of a classic restaurant to a food court, go up to the first floor and settle into Pap’Açorda, a town classic with traditional delicacies like pastéis de massa tenra, prawn açorda and breaded lamb chops. No meal here is complete without their famous chocolate mousse, served by the spoon.  Time Out Market, Avenida 24 de Julho, 49. Mon-Sun 10am-midnight.

DRINK

When Pensão Amor opened at the end of 2011, it was one of the first signs that the neighbourhood, which was decaying up until that point, was about to change radically. In the same building where rooms were once rented out for prostitutes and sailors that docked in Cais do Sodré from various parts of the world, now there is a cocktail bar and a venue for jazz concerts and burlesque shows.  Rua do Alecrim,

19. +351 213 143 399. Thu-Sat 2pm-4am, Sun-Wed 2pm-3am.

SHOP

Verso Branco is a home decor shop, studio and art gallery in constant change. In addition to its Nordic-looking furniture and its Portuguese signature pieces, it also hosts art exhibitions (Rua da Boavista 132-134. +351 211 342 634. Tue-Sat 11.30am-8pm). Also worth a visit, the Portuguese brand +351’s shop (+351 is Portugal’s calling code, by the way) is airy and spacious enough to allow you to hover freely around the chariots holding simple, minimalistic pieces, many of them unisex, with ocean-themed prints and, of course, their logo. There are t-shirts, jumpers, pants and jackets – the necessary basics you should bet on under the watchful eye of the colourful shark hanging from the ceiling.  Rua da Boavista, 81C. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun 11am-8pm.

DO

Did you come out here looking for merriment? Head to Cais do Sodré. If you can’t remember the last time you let your hair down on the dancefloor, shake off thy dust and head there anyway. You will find a world of small nightclubs to explore, like Jamaica (where you’ll find way more than reggae), Copenhagen (for rap and hiphop) or Tokyo (the place for professedly nostalgic music) – all on Rua Nova do Carvalho, best known as Rua Cor de Rosa (Pink Street) and Rua de São Paulo. But there is more: MusicBox (Rua Nova do Carvalho, 24) for those who want to party until sunrise; B.Leza (Cais do Gás, 1) for African rhythms; Viking (Rua Nova do Carvalho, 7) for striptease and karaoke; Titanic Sur Mer (Cais do Gás,

Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa) for themed parties; Rive Rouge in Time Out Market (Praça de Dom Luís I) for signature cocktails and electronica aplenty.

HAPPINESS IS A SLICE OF PIZZA IN EACH HAND Pizza doesn’t have to be complicated. Italian flour and ingredients are no guarantee of absolute quality. Duda Ferreira has opened Lupita, a pizzeria in Cais do Sodré, to prove just this. He’s taking on people who don’t like pineapple on their pizza or pick up their knife and fork to eat it. The pizzas at Lupita are made with dough that is fermented slowly and naturally. They’re designed to be eaten with your hands. You lick your fingers, drink natural wines and have loads of fun.  Rua de São Paulo, 79. +351 919 447 111. Mon-Sun midday-3pm & 6pm11.30pm. Time Out Market

Crush Doughnuts

Lupita

Pensão Amor PAINT IT, ALL COLOURS It all started in a street culture shop in Bairro Alto in 2009. It moved to Cais do Sodré in 2016 and changed its name to Montana Lisboa, but went back to its original moniker three years later. Crack Kids is a major supplier of Lisbon’s street artists and launched such big names as Akacorleone, Bordalo II and Maria Imaginário. In 2019 the business expanded and, in addition to a multi-brand store with the best graffiti equipment, they started their own clothing brand with limited editions signed by artists from the scene. They also sell one-off screen prints and run a gallery for novices with new exhibitions every two months. Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, 20 - Armazém A. +351 912 993 675. Mon-Fri 10am9pm, Sat 11am-9pm.

Crack Kids