Graça Castelo

Visiting Castelo goes far beyond ticking its main attraction, Castelo de São Jorge, off your monument list. It means walking up, up, and further up to Lisbon’s birthplace. Can your legs handle walking up a little more? Then venture into Graça.

EAT

Add another Portuguese word to your holiday lexicon: pitéu.

It refers to a treat, a delicacy, a tasty snack. There are plenty of classic restaurants in Graça, such as Satélite, O Cardoso do Estrela de Ouro or Estrela da Graça. But if you must pick one, everyone will recommend Pitéu da Graça, serving traditional dishes like fried carapauzinhos with vegetable rice. Average prices are around €20 per person. → Largo da Graça, 95-96. +351 218 871 067. Mon-Fri midday-3.30pm & 7pm-10.15 pm, Sat midday-3.30pm.

It was once a water reservoir from the 12th century, and a huge bakery that even had 19th century dormitories. Nowadays, in broad 21st century, it is a cosy restaurant full of options, incluing for vegans. At Graça 77 there are traditional dishes such as grilled cod or octopus, peixinhos da horta (crunchy green beans), great salads and homemade cakes. → Largo da

Graça, 77. +351 211 348 839. Fri-Tue 11.30am-11pm. Thu 4pm-11pm..

DRINK

There is such a thing as nightlife in Graça b.D. (before Damas) and a.D. (after Damas).

The bar is also a restaurant and gig venue, and has been since it opened in 2015 an unmissable stop for many Lisboners and visitors. The secret to their success is in the vibe and, above all, in their alternative and eclectic music calendar, which includes electronica and experimental music like creole rap, garage rock and folk. It depends on the night. Sometimes you’ll get it all in one. Admission is (almost) always free. → Rua da Voz do Operário, 60. Restaurant: Tue-Sat midday-4pm & 7pm-midnight, Sun-Mon 7pm-midnight. Club: Fri-Sat 11pm-4am.

DO

How about a coffee in a theatre? Absolutely reasonable, if we’re talking about Café da Garagem in Teatro Taborda. No amount of cloud coverage can stop the light from flooding the cafe through its massive glass wall. There is also outdoor seating for warm afternoons, but the line of retro lamps hanging above the indoor tables, made from old doors and easels, make for pretty photos. Their selection of bruschetta-like toast includes vegetarian options as well as combinations of Iberian ham, goat cheese and tomato jam.

→ Costa do Castelo, 75. Wed-Sun 2pm-10pm.

Damas VISIT PALÁCIO DO VISCONDE You can enjoy the Coffee Experience in two 19th century palaces. These sites have been carefully restored to provide a sensorial journey through the history and art of artisanal coffee, from the factory to the cup. It is in this historical environment that you can enjoy a truly picturesque experience. Everyone is welcomed by the “Viscount of Coffee”, lord of the palaces, on a journey through time to 19th century bourgeois Lisbon. The coffee scene was bubbling then and cultural life unfolded in the noble halls under its aroma. Whether you come to relax or take a guided tour, you can savour freshly roasted coffee here. An unforgettable experience! àRua Maria da Fonte, 55. +351 939 273 595. info@ palaciodovisconde. com

Café da Garagem ENJOY

COOL DOWN Jardim da Cerca da Graça is a quiet and soothing green pocket, and one of the neighbourhood’s most well-kept secrets. Located by the wall of the old convent, a few metres below Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, its 17 hectares encompass three viewpoints, welcoming grassy areas, picnic tables and an orchard. There are three entrances: one by Caracol da Graça, another on Calçada do Monte and the third in Mouraria. → Calçada do Monte, 46. Mon-Sun 9am9pm.