Arab designers steal the show in Paris
Paris Haute Couture Week drew to a stylish close on Saturday, but not before a clutch of luxury Arab fashion houses stunned onlookers with their Fall/ Winter 2021-22 collections.
Lebanese labels Elie Saab, Georges Hobeika, Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Zuhair Murad were all on the official agenda, with the majority opting for digital presentations as COVID-19 continues to hamper international events.
Zuhair Murad, however, staged an in-person show on Wednesday with an outdoor event at Paris’ Lycee Louis-le-Grand.
The front row for his Veniceinspired Fall 2021 couture show was packed with media representatives and his devoted clients – which include A-list celebrities and royals – who all had to undergo temperature checks for virus symptoms in order to gain entry to the venue.
Ras Baalbek-born Murad embellished rich fabrics such as velvet, duchesse satin, organza, and chiffon in a Murano glass-inspired color palette of sapphire, emerald, and ruby with sequins and beads reminiscent of opulent chandeliers on a palazzo on the Grand Canal.
The collection’s intricate embroidery highlighted why Murad required two ateliers fully staffed with petites-mains – in Beirut and Paris – to complete his creations. One dress was completely painted with marble motifs by hand.
On theme, the 49-year-old designer also incorporated beaded masquerade masks, similar to those worn during the Venice carnival, into the offering.
Murad closed the show with a glamorous, heavily embellished bridal gown with beaded, quarterlength sleeves, and intricate jewellike detailing.
For his part, Lebanese icon Saab showed off a flower-filled collection bursting with color.
His lineup of looks, presented via video, opened with a series of dark gowns which lightened up to pale pastel shades by the end of the show.
Tulle, organza, and chiffon gave his collection an airiness that was anchored by lashings of heavy taffeta, while petal and feather embellishments were used to give each piece a delicate feel. Silhouettes ranged from the designer’s go-to synched waist, full skirt combination to full on Disney princess takes on his classic gowns.
Hobeika, another red carpet favorite, took inspiration from the British Mod fashion movement of the 1960s and offered up a collection of gowns, jumpsuits and co-ords in a cocktail of colors. His signature use of feathers and beading was also on display in the fashion house’s video presentation.
Finally, Kayrouz translated six of his staple readyto-wear looks, including a covetable trench coat, into couture creations in a limited palette of camel, black and light blue.