HONG KONG JEW­ELLERY & GEM FAIR

Adore Gems & Timepieces - - HAUTE -

Septem­ber 16-22 / Asia World-expo (AWE) and Hong Kong Con­ven­tion & Ex­hi­bi­tion Cen­tre, Hong Kong Figures: 3,752 ex­hibitors; 57,600 vis­i­tors

The Hong Kong Jew­ellery & Gem Fair en­joyed its largest show­ing yet at its 33rd edi­tion with ex­hibitors and vis­i­tors from 50 coun­tries and re­gions that in­cluded, for the first time, South Africa, which de­buted its own pav­il­ion; and new ex­hibitors from Latvia, Myan­mar and Qatar.

Most no­table was the launch of a Bri­dal Jew­ellery Pav­il­ion, a re­sponse to the solid demand of the global bri­dal jew­ellery mar­ket. Fea­tur­ing ex­hibitors from main­land China, Ger­many, Ja­pan, Tai­wan and the US, buy­ers in the new pav­il­ion were treated to imag­i­na­tive, one-of-a-kind mas­ter­pieces and the be­trothal clas­sics.

The De­signer Arena was 26 per­cent big­ger in terms of ex­hi­bi­tion space this year and the va­ri­ety of de­sign in­flu­ences was read­ily ev­i­dent.

WEAR­ABLE LUX­URY

Young Chi­nese con­sumers are no longer in­ter­ested in jew­ellery solely for in­vest­ment pur­poses; jew­ellery is a part of their wardrobe, which ex­plains why they are be­ing tar­geted by stylish col­lec­tions that are suit­able for daily use. Tas­sel neck­laces act as the per­fect ac­ces­sory that can be worn from day to night. The pearls or beads bring a lit­tle ex­cite­ment

to work at­tire and the neck­lace can be draped round the back of the neck to ac­cen­tu­ate a back­less top. Syn­ony­mous with jew­ellery of the art deco pe­riod, the tas­sel has an enduring el­e­gance that im­bues both East­ern and Western aes­thet­ics. Yewn’s Manchurian ear­rings had a more courtly air than some of the re­laxed luxe of­fer­ings on view, as they paid trib­ute to the Qing Dy­nasty.

RAV­ISH­ING REDS AND THE MIGHTY TAN­ZAN­ITE

Ru­bies and pink di­a­monds brought a ro­man­tic air to pro­ceed­ings. Ru­bies were the pref­er­ence for state­ment rings, like Uni­ver­sal Jew­ellery’s grand heir­loom styled pear-shaped Burmese pi­geon’s blood ruby ring. Cov­eted Ar­gyle pink di­a­monds from the re­mote north of Western Aus­tralia boasting a del­i­cate pal­ette that can tra­verse the palest blush, through cherry blos­som and soft rose, to dra­matic red, were utilised more sub­tly in de­signs by the likes of Ja­pan’s Kashikey. Be­yond the hands, spinel was also a florid favourite such as that paired with di­a­monds in Forms’ Geo Rhom­bus ear­rings. The reign of rubescence is here.

The ar­rest­ing colour-change tan­zan­ite that can ra­di­ate blue, vi­o­let and bur­gundy was field­ing at­ten­tion. Un­like most gem­stones, tan­zan­ite is only found in one lo­ca­tion in the world and with Tan­za­nia’s Mere­lani Hills’ mines fac­ing a fi­nite fu­ture, the ex­clu­siv­ity of this elec­tric blue African trea­sure, said to be 1,000 times more rare than di­a­monds, will only in­crease. Lon­don’s Sarah Ho Cou­ture em­ployed tan­zan­ites as fea­ture stones in a very spe­cial pair of ear­rings cre­ated for ac­tress Ca­rina Lau.

LA BELLE ÉPOQUE

The era’s ro­man­tic in­flu­ences were felt across the fair in op­u­lent mod­ern homages to 19th­cen­tury tiaras and out­size drop ear­rings. The tiara was a key mo­tif of the bri­dal jew­ellery on dis­play, par­tic­u­larly Swarovski Gemvi­sions’ in­ven­tive ex­am­ples.

Iris Chung, man­ag­ing di­rec­tor, Swarovski Gen­uine Gem­stones and Cre­ated Stones Busi­ness — Greater China Re­gion, says: “Bri­dal jew­ellery at the mo­ment is re­spond­ing to women of dif­fer­ent char­ac­ters or personalities. You can be a bride who is a sweet princess, or a more avant-garde one who might wear a Vera Wang black wed­ding dress. When I look at The Twin Tiaras by Feli­cia Ltd, for ex­am­ple, I can imag­ine it with a tuxedo, black-and-white look.”

Nak­aba Kowzu’s spi­ral tiara in black rhodium on the cover of Swarovski’s Gem Vi­sions The Bri­dal Book: Tiara & Head­band Spe­cial was a state-of-the-art de­sign, while Ju­dith Ripka drew in­spi­ra­tion from her home, New York and the time­less Chrysler build­ing to be­stow a feel­ing of Amer­i­can Roy­alty. The ex­cep­tion­ally light head­band by Sabine Roemer was sim­i­larly of note, in­ter­pret­ing the reed mo­tif to sym­bol­ise an ev­er­last­ing com­mit­ment. Dra­matic drop ear­rings across the show also made the call for by­gone op­u­lence, such as Ba­palal Ke­shavlal’s spade ear­rings with emer­alds and cham­pagne di­a­monds.

STATE­MENT JEW­ELLERY

There were some ex­tra­or­di­nary neck­laces at the fair, with Shang­hai Kim­ber­lite Di­a­mond’s stand ex­hibit­ing sev­eral mem­o­rable cre­ations, namely those by the tal­ented Zhu Wen­jun, whose 25-ct Moon God­dess de­sign that was in­spired by the moon rising from sea level, in­cluded 1,877 bril­liant-cut di­a­monds. The con­cept de­manded 1,800 hours to cre­ate by hand. Peter Lam’s show­stop­per ear­rings,

Stay Happy And Be To­gether, were no less re­splen­dent or im­mense. Ex­tend­ing 20cm, the award-win­ning ear­rings mixed di­a­monds with pink and blue sap­phires, and gar­net. Their ef­fect was as if to ap­pear as sus­pended or danc­ing fire­works. –

From top: Royal Plume Neck­lace in 18k white gold with blue and pink sap­phires, aquamarines and opals from Sarah Ho Cou­ture; Tiara from Ju­dith Ripka from Swarovski Gem Vi­sions

Clock­wise from right: Ruby ring from Uni­ver­sal Jew­ellery; Be­spoke ear­rings made for Ca­rina Lau from Sarah Ho Cou­ture; Stay Happy And Be To­gether ear­rings from Peter Lam

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