Go Fish

Trust the in­stincts of this chef

Augustman - - Compliments From The Chef - WORDS HAN­NAH CHOO PHOTO RONALD LEONG

THE LONELY PLATE of wild yel­low­tail am­ber­jack is wait­ing for a fi­nal touch: its sig­na­ture po­tent kick. Sam Ais­bett stirs up a pot of pow­dered wasabi, and be­fore the fumes from the liq­uid ni­tro­gen en­gulf the room, scoops out a mouth­ful for me to sam­ple. Like a snowflake, the pow­der

melts on my tongue, so quickly that the cold barely reg­is­ters. What re­mains is a pleas­antly cool trace of freshly grated wasabi with none of the over­bear­ing as­sault you get from the su­per­mar­ket va­ri­ety. Ais­bett starts dress­ing the am­ber­jack in white soy, bonito oil, horse­rad­ish cream

and ap­ple. I watch him roll it in an ap­ple dashi jelly and try to take notes, even though he tells me there’s no recipe and that he’s do­ing all of it in­tu­itively. Well, I’ll be... for the fi­nal dish looked like some­thing out

of a dream, and tasted as di­vine.

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