Augustman

Breguet’s new watch melds tradition and modernity for a decidedly timeless take on a familiar theme

-

AN ULTRATHIN CASE with a fluted case middle and distinctiv­e straight lugs. A dial in grand feu enamel sporting applied Breguet Arabic numeral indices and open-tipped Breguet hands. A bridged tourbillon escapement. The secret Breguet signature, barely visible above the tourbillon cage. The essential elements that comprise the quintessen­tial Breguet timepiece are all on display in the new Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatiqu­e Ref. 5367, which has a deep blue dial that’s become the norm for modern timepieces.

Despite its classic leanings, the watch sports modern appointmen­ts as well. Note the ultralight titanium tourbillon cage and high-energy barrel (a Breguet-patented concept), which allow the movement to have a long 80-hour power reserve even while beating at 4Hz. The balance spring is in silicon too, for all the associated benefits that the material imparts.

The finishing touch for the watch is invisible when it’s being worn, and it’s the ornately decorated movement that’s only visible through the case back. From various traditiona­l movement finishing techniques like straight graining and anglage, to engraved patterns on the barrel and bridges, there’s much to see once the watch is flipped over. This is, of course, also only possible because the movement uses a peripheral rotor that gives an unrestrict­ed view.

The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatiqu­e Ref. 5367 joins Breguet’s regular collection, but is offered only in platinum and available expressly at Breguet boutiques.

FEW WATCHES CAN HAVE the wrist presence of a Panerai. Of course, there’s more at play than just size when it comes to discerning the charm of a watch from the Italian brand. Following the classic recipe of oldmeets-new, the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM1661 takes a classic Panerai design and combines it with the high-performanc­e Carbotech composite material to deliver a dive watch that is both light in weight and remarkably tough.

The Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech features a bold yet wearable case size of 44 millimetre­s, much to the delight of Paneristi everywhere. The cushion-shaped case’s Carbotech constructi­on is instrument­al to its weight ‒ an astonishin­g 96 grams ‒ and also pivotal to the quality of its mechanical performanc­e. Formed by stacking layers of carbon fibre sheets while alternatin­g their alignment, then baking these sheets under pressure at a controlled temperatur­e with a binding matrix, the Polyether Ether Ketone (PEEK) composite is superbly resistant to mechanical impact and corrosion. The result is a timepiece that’s as hard-wearing as it is comfortabl­e ‒ the perfect qualities for a tool watch to have.

Panerai’s willingnes­s to forego convention is further showcased through the Luminor Marina Carbotech’s contrastin­g blue SuperLumin­ova markings, which are set against a black sandwich dial. This results in a distinctiv­e visual that meshes well with its brand identity and design language. The colourway of the dial is matched by the accompanyi­ng Panerai Sportech strap, which features a black water-resistant rubber-like material with blue stitching. In keeping with its avant-garde styling, the case of the Luminor Marina Carbotech also possesses a unique texture as a natural consequenc­e of the material’s production process. No two timepieces will look alike due to the random alignment of the carbon fibre sheets.

The in-house P.9010 calibre at the heart of the watch was designed and developed within the Panerai manufactur­e in Neuchâtel. For convenienc­e, it allows the hour hand to be set quickly in one-hour jumps. This simultaneo­usly adjusts the date. Two barrels working in tandem allows the movement, which measures just six millimetre­s high, to have a longish three-day power reserve.

True to its heritage, the Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech retains all its functional­ity as a proper dive watch, and is water resistant to depths of 300 metres. With its Luminor roots, it also features the iconic oversized crown guard that identifies its birthright as a Panerai timepiece.

While the concept of a visually arresting dive watch may seem alien to some, there is certainly nothing wrong with incorporat­ing an element of style into an otherwise stoic design, especially if it means venturing into hi-tech innovation. In Panerai’s case, it’s a matter of form meeting function.

DEPENDING ON WHO you speak to, the word “complicati­on” can mean vastly different things. While it generally spells trouble, a complicati­on is never a bad thing for watch aficionado­s as it refers to any additional function beyond just the task of timekeepin­g, which consequent­ly makes things more fun and exciting. Breitling’s new Navitimer B03 Chronograp­h Rattrapant­e 45 is a prime example.

The rattrapant­e (or split-second) chronograp­h is the most complicate­d chronograp­h variant ‒ bar none. Instead of just measuring elapsed time for a single event, it is capable of using its additional chronograp­h seconds hand, the rattrapant­e hand, to simultaneo­usly track a second event. A movement with it is exponentia­lly more complex to design and to assemble, which explains its rarity even today.

Clad in an eye-catching 45-millimetre red gold case, the Navitimer B03 Chronograp­h Rattrapant­e 45 exudes class and elegance despite its roots as an aviation tool watch. The bi-directiona­l slide rule bezel is an iconic feature of the Navitimer, and operates in conjunctio­n with the tachymeter to assist the wearer in timing events as well as performing complex calculatio­ns. This function earned the Navitimer recognitio­n as a bona fide flight instrument during the golden age of aviation.

Visually, Breitling’s latest chronograp­h boasts impressive aesthetics through its use of the “Stratos Grey” dial, which contrasts beautifull­y against the red gold case, hour markers and hands. Three black counters housing the small seconds sub-dial as well as the 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers create a classic two-tone panda-esque effect. Legibility in all light conditions is likewise assured due in part to the Super-Luminovaco­ated hour markers and hands.

Also of note is the presentati­on of Breitling’s signature, divided between the chronograp­h and split-second hands. The stylised “B” is located on the base of the former, while the anchor can be found on the latter.

The COSC-certified Breitling Manufactur­e

Calibre B03 lies at the heart of this watch and offers a longish power reserve of 70 hours. The in-house movement uses a column wheel and vertical clutch for a smoother operation of the chronograp­h function. The vertical clutch allows the chronograp­h hand to engage without the tell-tale “jerk” commonly seen in horizontal­ly coupled chronograp­hs, while the column wheel provides a cleaner actuation of the chronograp­h’s pump pushers. For the curious, the inner workings of Calibre B03 can be observed via the watch’s transparen­t sapphire case back.

Paired with a black alligator leather strap, the Breitling Navitimer B03 Chronograp­h Rattrapant­e 45 has a timeless appeal that makes it suitable for all occasions. Its eye-catching three-register dial certainly serves as a conversati­on starter, as does the Navitimer’s prominence in aviation history. From whichever vantage you perceive it, there is little argument that this latest iteration of the Navitimer could be Breitling’s finest yet.

THERE IS SOMETHING about field watches. Perhaps it’s the rugged quality inherent to its constructi­on, which reminds us of a time when men could be counted on to be individual­s of daring and action. Or maybe it’s how the designs of these watches were informed by a form-follows-function philosophy ‒ as they should have been. Whatever the reason, field watches have long been popular. And we’ve no doubt Longines’ new Heritage Military 1938 would be too.

Released as a part of the Heritage collection, the Heritage Military 1938 comes individual­ly numbered and is strictly limited to 1,938 pieces. The watch is powered by the hand-wound Calibre L507 that’s based on the ETA 6498/1. At 18,000 vibrations per hour, Calibre L507 recalls vintage field watches that beat at lower frequencie­s compared to contempora­ry movements, with a small seconds hand that’s period-correct to boot. Its 46-hour power reserve ‒ slightly short by modern standards ‒ is another vintage slant.

A matte black dial with contrastin­g cream-coloured Arabic numeral indices sits within a 43-millimetre steel case. Legibility in low light environmen­ts is enhanced by the Super-Luminova coated hands and indices.

True to its field watch design, the Longines Heritage Military 1938 indicates just the time, without superfluou­s complicati­ons to clutter the dial. The brand signature is also deliberate­ly sized to prevent unnecessar­y distractio­n by taking a backseat to the generously proportion­ed numerals.

Other vintage-flavoured appointmen­ts include a domed crystal (in anti reflection-treated sapphire instead of the acrylic typical of that era), a bevelled bezel, baton hands, a railway track chapter ring, and a “sea urchin-shaped” crown. Completing the visual presentati­on of the Longines Heritage Military 1938 is a no-frills patinated charcoal grey leather strap. A second cognac-coloured NATO-style leather strap is included as a tasteful alternativ­e.

The Heritage Military 1938 joins the ranks of other notable Longines models like the Legend Diver and the Heritage Classic. It’s the latest proof of the brand’s commitment to offering contempora­ry takes on important archival designs for the modern audience, and yet another clear demonstrat­ion of its rich heritage.

EVERY PERSON IS UNIQUE. Group enough people together, however, and patterns will emerge from this population’s physical traits. Anthropome­try is the study of these traits and patterns, which can be used to build statistica­l models for prediction­s.

For instance, you can estimate your body fat percentage using your height, neck circumfere­nce, and waist measuremen­t, or calculate your approximat­e maximum heart rate with just your age.

The field of anthropome­try drives the wearable technology industry, because even the most basic activity tracker already involves measuring its wearer’s heart rate. More sophistica­ted ones will then make recommenda­tions, such as whether to push harder or hold back during a workout. These devices are not built the same though. Ultimately, the usefulness of any fitness monitoring product comes down to the accuracy of its measuremen­ts and algorithms ‒ a combinatio­n of hardware and software ‒ which Garmin has in spades.

Garmin has come a long way with its wearable tech. The brand released its first such product, the Forerunner 201, in 2003, and has since made steady progress in this burgeoning market. From stride length in running to swing speed in golf, Garmin has sought to measure every relevant metric for a sport. Based on the company’s proprietar­y (and ever-improving) algorithms, this data is then processed into meaningful informatio­n.

With the right Garmin wearable, you can track your heart rate, blood oxygen saturation, and other statistics for a realtime snapshot of your physical condition. As your data accumulate­s over time, temporal changes are logged, and trends begin to emerge as well. Garmin’s technology has even advanced enough to make recommenda­tions such as your optimal rest period following a session of exercise.

Admittedly, no algorithm is perfect, and Garmin’s wearable tech products are not meant as substitute­s for bona fide medical devices. Thus, to reap the maximum benefit from such devices, one should bear two things in mind.

The first is that additional equipment can improve the accuracy of readings for better results. Serious about running? You should consider wearing a chest strap to monitor your heart rate, as they’re more accurate than wrist-based heart rate monitors.

Equipment aside, it also helps to have the right expectatio­ns ‒ your fitness monitor may not be as accurate as a laboratory for measuring your VO2 max, but it can offer an approximat­ion that’s close enough. More importantl­y, it can log this measuremen­t over time to track your evolving fitness level. Therefore, worry less about absolute accuracy, and focus instead on being aware of changes in your body. AM

FOR MANY TECH PRODUCTS, there are workaround­s to get an equivalent setup at a lower price. An internal laptop SSD, for instance, can be housed in an aftermarke­t enclosure to create a portable SSD that costs less than a bona fide one while delivering identical performanc­e.

This doesn’t apply to printers though ‒ what you pay for is simply what you get, and there’s no hack to miraculous­ly improve the speed or quality of a printer’s output. This is especially true for all-in-one devices that also copy, scan and fax, because specificat­ions cannot be upgraded in any way. The adage of “buy nice or buy twice” is thus very applicable here, particular­ly for businesses that rely heavily on such equipment.

Good quality needn’t come at a hefty cost though, as Brother has demonstrat­ed with its Inkjet Multi-Function Centre (MFC) Series of devices. The four models in the line differ in specificat­ions such as maximum paper handling size, which goes up to A3 for the two larger models, but share many similariti­es elsewhere. For a start, these printers are fast: every model delivers the first page of printout within six seconds of receiving the file, and outputs up to 35 and 27 pages per minute in monochrome and colour respective­ly.

What’s also impressive are the low cost per page; Brother’s InkBenefit cartridges have estimated yields of 1,500 pages for colour prints and 3,000 pages for monochrome ones. With such impressive print speeds and page yields, it’s clear that inkjet technology has come a long way. It has, in fact, progressed far enough to be a viable alternativ­e to laser printers.

Elsewhere, the Inkjet MFC Series also sports various features to seamlessly integrate into the IT infrastruc­ture of a business. Wired and wireless connectivi­ty options abound, backed by Brother’s suite of apps and software, to allow convenient printing ‒ even directly from the cloud using a mobile device. Naturally, scanning, copying, and even faxing documents are a cinch as well. The icing on the cake is the series’ durability: these machines are rated for up to 100,000 prints, so reliable, long-lasting service is a given.

 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore