TEST OF METAL
“Recycled” has negative connotations but the Panerai eSteel collection will change your mind
FOR PANERAI, there’s no greater icon than the Luminor collection and the instantly recognisable Marina series. Yet, a time marches on, though the aesthetics of the distinctive cushion shaped case and its signature Safety Lock crown guard and sandwich dial remain the same, the means of construction alter. This year, the material itself has evolved, encasing the timepiece in an “innovative metal” that Panerai has dubbed “eSteel”.
Forging ahead with more ethical practices and a mission aligned to explorers like Mike Horn (p. 90), the Neuchâtel manufacure debuts Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel, making the latest collection one of the most sustainably made timepieces in the world of watchmaking.
The new Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel Collection: PAM01157, PAM01356 and PAM01358
Being the first to feature the patented crown guard, the Luminor has been the platform for Panerai’s latest technical innovations; hence, the introduction of the the brand’s new fangled eSteel material into the collection aligns with the spirit of the series and the brand’s continuing commitment to reduce its environmental impact on the planet.
While there have been multiple initiatives to reduce the use of virgin materials in watchmaking, they’ve insofar been limited to straps and packaging, the new Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel Collection. Made of recycled-based materials, corresponding to the 58.4% of the total weight of the watch, the classic Luminor Marina has become “one of the most remarkable technical achievements in the brand’s history” with the recycled-based steel alloy forming the case, crown protection architecture and dial.
That said, a brand with a reputation for robust timepieces to uphold meant that eSteel had to meet the same rigorous standards demanded of the steel cases that preceded it. Demonstrating identical chemical behaviour, physical structure and resistance to corrosion as a non-recycled alloy, the classic 44mm cushion-shaped case returns in a brushed finish save for its polished bezel and the Safety Lock crown protection device.
These new watches are available in three dial colours, sharing the typical Panerai two-plate sandwich architecture with cutouts for the indexes, this time executed in stylish gradient colours: Blu Profondo, Grigio Roccia and Verde Smeraldo ‒ the latter being a boutique exclusive edition. The crown itself is rubberised in a colour matching that of the dial.