SKIN TYPE, NOT SEX TYPE
No product should make you feel inferior as a human being. The future of beauty needs to be inclusive
In the 1980s, makeup saw a resurgence among eccentric stage performers, rock stars, and anyone who considered themselves alternative and wanted to portray themselves as rebels of society.
Think David Bowie and Boy George for their conspicuous use of makeup. Without bending gender as outlandishly as Bowie or George, it was Prince who challenged what men should look like. His signature sultry, smoky eye stripped away the gender-conforming shackles that had been placed on makeup for centuries.
After flourishing during ancient times, skin care came back as an artform in the 1700s. In 1800s it was a privilege reserved for the upper class. This meant skincare products were hard to obtain, and expensive. The pale and fair beauty standard originated circa this time, with people using harsh cleaners, oatmeal, lemon juice and egg yolks to attempt to lighten the skin.
Although the grooming industry exploded in the 1900s, the need for gender-neutral products was not understood until recently. The advent of social media, and the rise of Instagram and YouTube, gave platform for people, often from diverse backgrounds, to demand change, and corporations are finally beginning to listen. As part of the current generation, I daresay we no longer subscribe to the beauty norms of the generations before us.
Of course, it is also true that the science that guided the production of skincare and makeup products wasn’t as sophisticated as it is today. Scientists of yesteryear had our parents believing that men’s skin is thicker than women’s and tends to produce more oil. This isn’t always the case. Skin types have nothing to do with gender. They simply range from dry to oily, sensitive to combination for men and women.
As Hungarian thermal-water beauty brand, Omorovicza’s CoFounder, Stephen de Heinrich de Omorovicza said, “Men have slightly thicker skin, but you still need to cleanse, you need to exfoliate, and
you still need to moisturise. There’s absolutely no reason on Earth that you can’t use the exact same products.”
While the beauty industry has been female-centric, the demand and shifting preferences are seeing a proliferation of products that are suitable for everyone.
The Trailblazers
Forerunners for genderless beauty have stepped up. Brands such as Aesop, Fenty Beauty and Fenty Skin, and Drunk Elephant have set the precedence for the future. Only a few years ago, men’s brands were limited to brands like LAB Series and Zirh.
Fenty Beauty became an instant global success with its 40-shade foundation range. The message “Beauty for All” is just as important as the products it puts out. It’s alternative take on beauty and unapologetic attitude to life has garnered a huge following, further cementing that regardless of gender, skin tone, religious beliefs or sexual preference, everyone is welcome.
Aesop’s signature amber glass vials are second to the quality of ingredients that they are so proud of. Each product targets skincare concerns ‒ sun protection, dry skin or acne ‒ and is focused on what our skin needs regardless of gender.
A personal favourite, Drunk Elephant, founded by Tiffany Masterson in 2012, prides itself on helping consumers look at skincare more holistically. A clean skincare line, it too believes in gaining a better understanding of how the skin functions.
CK One deserves mention as does home-grown Singapore brands Yours and Porcelain. Calvin Klein made history as the first androgenous fragrance. Its release sparked discussion about gender in the beauty industry, especially within luxury fragrances.
Yours was created when Navneet Kaur was searching for a solution to her husband’s skin flare-ups. She found that the product discovery process for skin care was broken, and that large beauty industries didn’t understand what people really needed. It prompted her to reimagine the way people shop for skincare and led her to build a personalised brand that simplifies the process by looking at what the skin needs while considering lifestyle and environmental factors.
Porcelain is no stranger in the grooming and beauty industry by now. Its philosophy stemmed from knowing how cells work and developing solutions using naturalistic approaches to restore skin’s health.
Although the stigma against men using makeup, and the idea of genderless grooming faded over the last decade, cosmetic advertising is still struggling in its messaging. The debate on what branding counts as gender-neutral is part of the move away from biases. Take L’Oréal’s revision of its trademark slogan “Because You’re Worth It” to “Because We’re All Worth It” for example. The aim seems to be to avoid leaning either way but settle in a comfortable middle ground.
There are still brands in the market gingerly making their way towards the genderless border. And while we wait patiently for them to get there, it is a good feeling to know I can reach for a foundation shade that perfectly matches my skintone. There is still room for skincare products to expand to cater for more skin types and concerns, but at least things are moving in the right direction, one that will make everyone feel good in their own skin.