The Perfect Cedar

A lightning strike produced a stroke of genius. Aurélien Guichard tells us the interesting story behind Burberry Hero

to ponder over the link between art, raw materials, and perfume ‒ all of which have combined to become a powerful influence in his current work.

He is also the only perfumer in the world with his own fields of roses, jasmine and verbena and the only perfumer who uses their own Rose Centifolia for their creations. In 2016, Aurélien planted Centifolia roses and established a lab in Grasse; creating one of the largest Rose Centifolio organic (Eco-cert certified) farms in France. Following family and regional know-how, he has been cultivating thousands of roses on an exceptional terrain. In 2018, the farm was recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by Unesco.

Three years prior, upon receiving the Burberry Hero project, one of the three Atlas Cedarwoods was struck by lightning. Till today, the magical scent of the wood remains in the air, and the tree still stands. For It acts as a daily reminder of the contrast between power and the fragility of natural elements. It was also a sign for Aurélien to craft the perfect cedar note for Burberry Hero.

What is your earliest memory of a scent?

My family has been in the fragrance business for decades. When I was a little boy, my grandparents were growing roses, jasmine, and verbena, and in August, we had pickers come every morning to pick jasmine. At the end of each morning, they would gather to compound what they had picked. My grandfather was doing that in a little house where the ground was made of clay. There was a mix of smells ‒ of the clay, of the flowers, of the petrol engine, and altogether it radiated an amazing scent.

A second memory that is very dear to me is centred on the harvesting of roses in May. We used to drive the roses to the factory so they could get extracted. I remember being a little kid in a car, full of bags of thousands of roses. The smell is just incredible, and I think that has left an imprint on my mind.

How has growing up in Grasse influenced your passion and the inspiration behind your perfumes?

Not all my perfumes, but I would say that the influence that Grasse has is more towards my family. It was the way my father created perfumes, his way of looking, his vision of his work that was very special and very passionate. I think I’ve kept that with me all my life.

What were your goals after completing your education?

I studied in England, and my main goal in life was to go away from France. (laughs) It’s a little village, and sometimes I felt people were a little narrow minded and really, very early in my years, I’ve had the will and desire to work with people from different cultures and generations. I was lucky enough to become a perfumer. But what I love most is not just the creating but the interaction with people and being able to work and create perfumes with them just like

I did with Riccardo Tisci for Burberry Hero.

What was the first fragrance you made and how has your scent profile changed?

The first fragrance I made was for Guerlain. I was 23, just fresh out of school. What I thought was absolutely amazing is when you create a fragrance, while it’s certainly about the perfume and the perfumer, it is also about the people who give you the chance to be part of an amazing brand when you’re a young perfumer.

Perfume is made by the perfumer, by the person who is in-charge of the project, and the designer himself at the fashion house. That was very influential because, when you start at 23, you think everything is possible and usually people tell you it’s not. Moving forward, working with Riccardo Tisci ‒ an amazing designer in my eyes ‒ makes me feel we finally live in a time where people like him believe anything is possible. It’s very motivating.

What were the challenges and milestones you faced as a young perfumer then?

Creation is always about people. So, the challenge is always to meet people who have placed their trust in you and who value your work. When you meet these people ‒ especially if they’re inspiring ‒ if you’re capable, and you listen, then things happen. Suddenly you’re creating perfumes and fragrances that are being distributed around the world. The milestones are the people I’ve collaborated with. I’ve worked with some great fragrance houses, whether it’s Gucci or Versace.

Working with people who let you be free to create fragrances you think are unique are great opportunities. Whether it’s John Galliano, or Riccardo Tisci, these are the milestones that give you the legitimacy. When you create a fragrance that meets great success, it changes everything in your career.

Tell us about the process and the work that goes into the perfumes you create?

My process is usually almost always the same. When I start to work for a fashion brand, or a brand, I always document and look into the history. I would then go to a store where I look at people who buy the brand, because I think we need to be connected; especially to the people who cherish the brand.

I also try to envision a person who will perfectly embody the project. In this case, for Burberry Hero, it was all about Riccardo Tisci ‒ his work, his physicality and spirituality. Then, only then, will I think of an idea and how I can translate these.

For Burberry Hero, I wanted to recreate a perfect cedarwood because cedar trees are a symbol of power, freedom and incorruptibility. These factors were so important in the project, and it was also an element that represented Riccardo Tisci himself ‒ a strong build, at the same time, very artistic and creative. Hence, it was something very obvious to me.

If you could create a fragrance specifically for Singapore, what notes would you choose?

I love to use wood in my fragrances, no matter if I’m creating for men or women, or working on a non-gender specific fragrance. Even if I was working on a new scent for a specific country like Singapore, it would have woody notes within it.

Over the years, how has perfume changed with the times to include sustainability and appeal?

I think perfumers now try to create sustainable formulations by enhancing organic, ethical, and upcycled raw materials, but also use sustainable ingredients from natural origins.

What do you think it takes to become an established perfumer such as yourself?

The best advice I ever received is that: in order to become a good perfumer, you need to find happiness and freedom within yourself.