OF MOON PHASES AND LAYERS

Balancing the concept of whimsy with ingenious mechanism, the Squelette Lune marks Hermès’ second skeletonised timepiece

ANY CONVERSATION about Hermès watches naturally gravitate towards how deceptively simple the designs appear. Yet they are anything but. The recent Slim d’Hermès line presents watches geared toward horological content and creative flair.

The Slim is relatively traditional. Its newest addition, the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, extends the collection with its quintessential round case and original angular lugs. However, this model sets itself apart with its juxtaposition. It plays with paradoxes, hovering between classical and contemporary touches.

The Slim d’Hermès Lune is the house’s second skeletonised timepiece after the Arceau Squelette. It’s no surprise that with its svelte forms and minimalist designs ‒ tastefully balancing against the concept of whimsy ‒ the Slim d’Hermès line has won many fans.

The play on textures and colours is what sets the Squelette Lune apart. The 39.5mm ultra-thin case combines bead-blasted dark grey titanium caseband and caseback, as well as a precious platinum bezel and white gold crown. The pairing of the almost industrial textures with sleek platinum makes the overall look a very attractive one.

The choice of materials also explains the price: almost double that of the Arceau Squelette, at USD20,550.

Central to the concept of the watch is the movement of the dial.

The open-worked watch is powered by the new H1953 movement based on the Vaucher-manufactured H1950 ultra-thin, micro-rotor movement that powers Slim d’Hermès time-only models.

The micro-rotor is easily overlooked, yet the architectural intricacy allows an insight of the calibre through the display caseback, in which regular rotors only obscure. The dial also includes a blackgold flange with a sunburst finish. The welcome burst of colour is represented by movement jewels of slender blue PVD-coated hands, and a photorealistic double moon phase display at six o’clock.

The deep shades of the skeletonised dial ‒ a personal aesthetic favourite ‒ accentuated by the alternating matte and glossy finishes, exemplifies the character and refinement of the Hermès watch.

To complete the cosmic and dreamlike dimension of the timepiece is an alligator strap closed with a titanium-pin buckle. The harmonious mechanism and air of effortlessness in the Squelette Lune is another nifty piece from the Slim d’Hermès collection to have on the wrist.

Overall, the name Squelette Lune ‒ or if one prefers-‘skeleton moon’, reflects greatly on the way the watch is conceptualised. It invites contemplation over the processes of time, comparing scale of timepiece to the scale of a giant celestial orb in the sky.