New Classic
Bulgari’s new Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon is a modern take on a deeply traditional high complication
BUILT AROUND THE TOURBILLON minute repeater calibre BVL 428, which chimes on three hammers with three gongs rather than two like a conventional repeater, the Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon essentially brings two traditional complications of the tourbillon and the striking mechanism together to vocalise a contemporary interpretation. Featuring a graphic skeletonised movement with blue bridges, a platinum case and a blued titanium midcase, the Bulgari Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon is designed to amplify the sounding of its gongs with perfect musical pitch and clarity.
Measuring 44mm by 12.83mm the Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon is considered “thick”, but with good reason. Its generous proportions are designed to maximise sound propagation, enabling increased torque from the three-tone construction and greater sound power production. In particular, the blued titanium caseband is designed to maximise sound and allow it to spread as much as possible.
Normally the racks and snails of a minute repeater are situated under the dial, so all the mechanical magic that happens from when the time from the position of the hands is “read” and then transmitted to the the hammers and gongs, all takes place “backstage”. On the Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon, the gongs are attached directly to the body of the case for the most efficient sound transmission, while the middle- case is made of titanium to ensure the clearest possible sound diffusion. The back is also hollowed out and redesigned with a titanium grid that protects this resonant area and enables outward transmission of the sound; finally, with its skeletonised dial, you do get to see some of the action on the face, just not the hammers and gongs vibrating.
The architecture of the BVL428 calibre, the cut-out of the bridges and the positioning of the various components are original, contemporary and contrasted in order to reveal the beauty of the mechanism.
WITH HUBLOT, the most intimidating barriers for watch lovers have been the brand’s predilection for large dimensions and outsourced movements, as well as price points that should give buyers an in-house movement at the very least. Well, the Nyon manufacture has been paying attention, as evidenced by the launch of the Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only.
The new timepieces are quintessentially Hublot: they are everything you like about its less pompous timepieces in an unprecedented diameter of 40mm. Never before has Hublot’s iconic design been fitted into such a slim-fitting and sexy outfit.
Although the new integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t the brand’s first ‒ that honour belongs to the 42mm Integral chronographs ‒ they do break new ground for Hublot. The three new time-and- date Integrals are launched in titanium, yellow gold and black ceramic, each measuring a classic 40mm in diameter and 9.25mm thin, and offer 100 meters of water resistance.
With the Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only, the LVMH watchmaker is answering a specific dearth in the competitive segment of steel luxury sports watches that not only ticks the boxes of a current trend from a design standpoint, but also reflects the ethos of its name. What is curious is that none of the new offerings is rendered in steel ‒ a sign perhaps that Hublot is making a market statement that it isn’t necessarily compelled to follow trends.
The openworked dial lends a technical and sporty look, however, what works on a chronograph’s many bridges and gear trains looks a little sparse on the mainplate of a time and date calibre. That said, the new iteration is thinner than ever, hence able to offer elegance in yellow gold, titanium or ‘All Black’ ceramic. There is a certainly a refined perspective to the timepieces.
The iconic three-link bracelet mirrors the sharp edges of the case, echoing the vibrant and powerful architecture of the middle. Each link is individually polished and satin-finished, chamfered and bevelled, to provide either matte or glossy complex, with alternating surfaces to reflect every spark of light.
The ‘Time Only’ Big Bang Integral in titanium and yellow gold join the collection. The ‘All Black’ version, like all the All Blacks cra ed by the watchmaker, is limited to 250 pieces.