09 CULTURE

When you think of Southeast Asia, this country may not be the first to come to mind. Yet, within its borders lie a rich history and unique culture waiting to be uncovered. Let’s take a journey through this captivating land – Laos.

Temples, Tourism and Triumph

Laos – A Developing Nation

Landlocked and largely dependent on trade with its neighbors, Laos is still working towards becoming a developed country. Despite facing the repercussions of a past war, Laos is home to some of Southeast Asia’s most beautiful, unmarred countryside, stunning crystalblue waterfalls and pristine jungles brimming with wildlife. The friendly, welcoming and helpful spirit of the Lao people is the icing on the cake.

While Laos is certainly still a developing nation, the country is changing fast as tourism, industry and trade increase and the economy as a whole grows exponentially. Despite all this growth, everything still moves a bit slower in Laos. Roads can be rough and old buses leave late and break down regularly, still people smile and greet you with a hearty “Sabai Dee!” The pulse of a hectic life fades away and we relax, taken in by the country’s charm.

Moving North

Northern Laos is a great place to explore tribal culture and experience the nation’s plentiful and yet untouched wilderness. Unfortunately, the demand for resources by countries like China are starting to tap into Laos’ natural resources, while the traditional “slash-and-burn” agriculture used by many farmers scars the landscape.

Thankfully, many local and international organisations are fighting back. One way to support their cause is through responsible ecotourism, so we join The Gibbon Experience for two days of trekking and zip-lining through the protected jungles of Bokeo National Reserve. We share a hearty meal of cooked meats, stewed vegetables and sticky rice (a Lao staple) with our guides and spend a magical night in a jungle tree house.

From the North we climb aboard the “slow boat” for two days journey down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. These rushing waters are the source of food and income for many of the Lao people. Surrounded by beautiful scenery we see fisherman with giant nets, small boats hauling goods and children clamouring along the banks at every stop. They climb eagerly aboard our boat to sell drinks and snacks, hoping to bring some of our valuable tourist dollars home to their families.

In Luang Prabang, the streets are lined with traditional temple grounds and French colonial architecture. The city is also teeming with young Buddhist monks. Every morning just before sunrise, the monks leave their temples to collect alms from the people in their community. In Luang Prabang there are many temples, so the sheer volume of monks is quite striking.

The Capital – Vientiane

Like much of Laos, the capital Vientiane is strikingly mellow and the air surprisingly fresh. The most remarkable is our visit to the COPE Visitors Center (COPE stands for Cooperative

Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) where we get our first real look at the horrors of the Vietnam War and the United States’ “secret war” against Laos. COPE works to provide aid to victims who were injured or have lost their limbs due to ‘unexploded bombs’ littered all over the country. This aid comes in the form of prosthetic limbs, wheelchairs and physical/occupational therapy for those who cannot afford it.

As we reach the entrance of COPE, we are met by Small Kim, a wonderful young man receiving care at the centre. He may be blind and without his limbs, but the strength of his spirit is awe-inspiring. We talk with him for ten minutes or more, answering his eager questions. He tells us of the English parents who have adopted him and how he named himself after his adoptive mother, who he calls Big Kim. His smile and energy in the face of such adversity leave us amazed.

We learn of the devastating cluster bombs that were dropped all over the Lao countryside during the war. These massive 600lb. bombs opened in mid-air and dispersed 6-700 little “bombies.” Each bombie, about the size of a tennis ball, is designed to explode on impact. Unfortunately, many did not explode, and an estimated 80 million of these bombs are still hidden within the lands. Each year, about 300 Lao people are killed by these unexploded bombs.

From Vientiane, we travel over rolling hills of vibrant green, through rice paddies and past lumbering water buffalo. After a long night on the road our grumbling bus finally pulls into the dusty outpost of Phonsavan. From here we explore the mysterious Plains of Jars. We meander over hillsides pock-marked with bomb craters and ponder the origin of these centuries old, massive stone-carvings.

Nearby villagers—ever the inventive recyclers—repurpose bomb shells and casings from the war as supports to prop up their stilt houses. Walking the village’s main dirt road, our tour guide points to the ubiquitous satellite dishes topping every ramshackle house along our journey and asks, “What do you call that?” When someone replies plainly “a satellite dish,” he shakes his head mischievously and replies with a grin, “No. Lao national flower!”

Now our time in Laos comes to an end, and there are many reasons to return. Here, the modern and the mystical collide, and ancient traditions meet new conveniences. We thank the Lao people for letting us explore their history and share the experience of what it means to be Lao.