The Infamous Durian

For a small island country, Singapore has quickly made her name known for the various iconic landmarks and the unique local characteristics and flavours. However, one thing remains debatable on the tourists’ list of to-dos – the durian! Perhaps delving into the origins of this tropical fruit will help us appreciate it better. Durian Talk

The durian has been crowned the “king of fruits” in Singapore, but it is also infamously reputed as the king of stink! Some opined that durians emit quite a nefarious odour and this is the reason for it being banned in hotels and certain public places such as restaurants and cinemas. Hardly any other fruit comes close to beating the durian’s pungent smell. This is likely one of the reasons for its title as the king of fruits.

Durians are grown in many countries in South East Asia. The ones found in Singapore are typically imported from Malaysia and Thailand. As we are familiar with the Granny Smith, Royal Gala and Fuji apples, durians too, are categorised by varieties according to the colour of the flesh, the taste and other qualities. Some Malaysian plantations invent names such as Golden Phoenix and Green Bamboo for varieties based on their distinctive shape or colour. In Thailand, more than 200 durian varieties can be found. These include the Chanee (D123), characterised by

its yellow, creamy, sweet flesh that becomes bittersweet when over-ripe; and the creamy, sweet and firm-fleshed Kan Yao (D158). The standard market rate for non-premium durians in Singapore is between $15 and $20 per kilogram, but bargain-hunters will find durian stalls that sell the lower grades at more affordable prices. Nevertheless, as with most things, you get what you pay for.

So where can you find the best durians in Singapore? For many years, durian aficionados have flocked to a certain durian stall at the Tanglin Village car park on Dempsey Road. It is only in operation for about six to eight months a year depending on the season and the quality of the harvest. For the other months of the year, durian cravings can almost always be satisfied at Sims Avenue in Geylang, where an entire row of durian stall owners have their businesses established. The competition is intense but this works to the benefit of the customers as it keeps the prices under control. As part of their value added service to attract more customers, stall owners will even allow customers to trade their purchase for new ones if they were not satisfied with the first batch.

The Heart of the Matter

As with popular cultures and festivities, this mysterious king of fruits comes with a folklore and tradition of its own. In the philosophy of Traditional Chinese Medicine, there are energies within food that generate ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ sensations. The notion of ‘heaty’ and ‘cooling’ food is related to their capacity to generate such sensations. Durians are classified as ‘heaty’ food. It is said that you can drink water from the empty durian husk in order to counter the heatiness caused by consuming durians, and to regain balance in your body. Drinking from the husk is also believed to have abilities to negate that pungent durian breath. An alternative method is to complement durians with mangosteens or a cool coconut drink, both of which have cooling properties that balance the durian’s ‘heatiness’. This is why you usually see mangosteens for sale just next to the durians. It is uncertain whether all this is true, but you can certainly experiment with these remedies the next time you enjoy these tropical fruits. Folklore and tradition aside, what we do know about durians is that they have a high potassium content, so it would serve those with kidney and heart conditions, and especially the diabetics well, to keep the frequency and volume of durian consumption within reasonable limits. As with all good things, moderation is key.

Despite the health concerns highlighted, the future of this royal fruit seems secure. Durians are catching on in other parts of the world. This is mainly due to Thailand’s recent venture into producing exportable durians on a large scale. This export is of the Mon Thong variety, which is suitable for shipping to distant places because they can be harvested and stored weeks before they become fully ripe. In fact, Thai agriculturists have also managed to reduce the disagreeable smell of the durian, after recognising it as the key factor to successfully introduce durians to people in the Western market who may be put off by its powerful smell. As a result of the Thai agriculturists’ efforts, durians are now exported to places as far away as North America.

Getting Down to Business

It is important to know how to choose the right durian. Durians that are too ripe may be overly bitter and the ones that have not ripened will be hard and likely

to be tasteless. It is an art and a multi-sensory skill that involves touching, hearing, and smelling. The first thing you should do is to pick the durian up with both hands. Place the durian gently in both palms and hold it next to your ear. Then give it a gentle shake. If it did not make any sound, it means that the fruit is too ripe, but if you hear a hard knocking sound, the fruit is not ripe enough. What you want to hear are dull, soft knocks. After identifying the right knocking sounds, you narrow your choices further by getting the right smell. Hold the durian about an inch from your nose and give it a good sniff. You should only get a whiff of the durian fragrance. If it smells raw, the durian is probably not ripe, and if the smell is too strong, it is too ripe and the flesh is likely to be soft and gooey. It should smell just right and this ability to know when it is ‘just right’ can only be perfected through experience. Of course, the best or easier way is just to request for the durian seller to open one for sampling purposes. This has become an established practice in Singapore and most durian sellers will oblige without question.

As you can see, the durian with its rich background is firmly rooted in Singapore culture today and has even been posited to inspire the aesthetic design of our Esplanade Theatres, which has become one of the iconic landmarks for photography enthusiasts. Whether you love it or hate it, the durian is a unique fruit that has indelibly established its place in the full Singaporean experience.