A gastronomic destination
Being the only resort in the world to garner 8 Forbes Five-star Award for 2 consecutive years, the palatial interiors of Wynn Macau are home to more than its capacious suites and spas. Award winning fine dining restaurants, Golden Flower and Mizumi, convene under one roof for a stunning display of imperial Tan and Japanese cuisine.
Much has been said about Wynn Macau being one of the most gorgeous hotels in Asia’s resort city, Macau. But it’s only when you check into the swanky property, with a sprawling view of Nam Van Lake before you, that you realise it is no exaggeration. Opulence is the thought that comes to mind as you step into the world-class luxury integrated resort, which combines Las Vegas aesthetics with an extensive art collection, featuring Macanese silk embroidery and cloisonné camels. The iconic outdoor pool is a fine example; it is a golden-hued reimagination of a tropical oasis flanked by objet d’arts. A salon and two spas are ideal for rejuvenating weary bodies after a day of sightseeing, while any of its 1,004 rooms and suites across its two towers (Wynn and Encore) is a splendid choice for a relaxing night in.
Adding to its spectacular slew of opulent amenities are two
acclaimed fine dining restaurants to pamper diners’ palates. The food at two-michelin Golden Flower leaves a lasting impression. Helmed by Executive Chef of All Chinese Culinary Operations at Wynn Macau, Liu Guo Zhu – a master in northern Chinese cuisine – the lavish establishment, which also took home Forbes Travel Guide Five Star Restaurant, features Sichuan, Lu and the elusive Tan cuisine that’s passed down only to gifted chefs. On the other hand, Mizumi, Macau’s only two Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant, offers a multi-faceted showcase of Japan’s meticulous cuisine, from artfully prepared sushi tasting menus to delectable teppanyaki grills.
The true essence of the rare Tan cuisine
Blossoming under the brilliant culinary prowess of chef Liu Guo Zhu is the aristocratic Tan cuisine.
To truly understand this specialty is to delve into its history. Dating to the Qing Dynasty, it marked a tumultuous period in Chinese history. Struggling to make ends meet, Tan Zong Jun, a high-ranking government official, hosted fellow officials at his home, showcasing Tan family signatures. The Nanhai (Guangdong) native enjoyed cooking a cuisine that married Southern and Northern Chinese fare, with a focus on balance. Sugar is added not for sweetness but used to bring out the mouth-watering savoury notes in luxurious ingredients, like sea cucumber; it became a cuisine people from various parts of China can enjoy. Not only did it turn his family’s life around, it captured the attention of a top Chinese government official. The top brass motivated their move into Beijing Hotel, where they would continue to spread this uniquely labour-intensive and flavoursome fare to the world. The establishment soon became a training ground for this centuriesold culinary tradition.
It was there, in the 1960s, when a 16-year-old Liu – out of 15 talented apprentices – was chosen by a descendent of the Tan family, Peng Chang Hai, to continue its legacy. It marked the beginning of his illustrious career. The brilliant chef continued to dazzle with his zealous attitude, wit and ambidexterity, and became an accomplished chef in other disciplines of Chinese cuisine (courtesy of the hotel’s enormous kitchen).
“Listening to the stories of the Qing dynasty official from the elder chefs, researching and practicing the techniques fuelled my continued love for it (Tan cuisine)”
- Executive Chef of All Chinese Culinary Operations at Wynn Macau, Liu Guo Zhu
But he remains a devotee to the coveted Tan cuisine. “Listening to the stories of the Qing dynasty official from the elder chefs, researching and practicing the techniques fuelled my continued love for it,” says Liu. “Every dish relies on choosing the crème de la crème of any ingredient, understanding which technique would bring out its naturally alluring flavours and skilfully transforming my vision into a pleasing meal for esteemed diners.”
As a recognition of his talents, the Beijing Native became the first Mainland Chinese chef awarded the Rôtisseur award from the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in 1991 as well as taking on the role of chief instructor of Chinese cuisine at the Chinese Culinary Institute of Hong Kong. He has also presented his immaculate dishes to the likes of foreign dignitaries, including Her Royal Highness the Queen of England and Deng Xiao Ping.
Today, his delectable plates can be savoured at Golden Flower, a sumptuous restaurant draped in an elegant orange and gold. The garden-themed dining space is reminiscent of an oriental dining room of a British shipping tycoon, courtesy of the golden panels dotted with elegant florals – a magnificent backdrop for his equally entrancing dishes.
When asked what his signatures are, he immediately names the Fresh Clam and Jasmine in Chicken Soup. “What makes Tan cuisine so special is its focus on the clear yet rich stock. This dish uses a robust broth made of old hen, old duck, Jinhua ham and yuan bei (dried scallops), where the impurities are removed when cooked for eight hours and meticulously stirred for another hour. The entire dish hinges on mastering the heat control and cooking time for each ingredient. What seals the deal is the simple addition of Jasmine flower at the end which perfumes the diners’ senses as they open the lid,” explains Liu. The same attention to detail can be seen in the Stewed Fish Maw with Crab Claw in Supreme Chicken Broth, an aromatic dish exuding the extravagance of the cuisine. The fish maw is soaked in low-temperature oil (instead of water) to create a fluffy cloud that soaks up the nourishing and robust chicken stock, making each mouthful a textural delight.
Another exceptional fact about Liu is his innovative spirit. Rather than a traditionally regimented, hierarchy-based kitchen, he allows his team to learn these time-honoured skills as well as encouraging them to improve upon the recipes. With over 40 years of experience in the culinary arts, he not only preserves the authenticity of Tan cuisine but furthers its legacy by taking it into the 21st century.
The spirit of Japanese craftmanship
Celebrate the end of a remarkable day with dinner at Mizumi, a restaurant turning the whole dining experience into art. Refurbished in 2016, the sophisticated dining rooms turns conventional Japanese dining on its head. Guests would saunter upon Japanese Obi-inspired carpeting, marvel at the exquisite collection of antique Japanese Obi and eclectic artworks by Gerardo Hacer and Sush Machida, before being presented a menu offering three different cooking styles – sushi, tempura and teppanyaki.
Leading the pack is Japanese Chef de Cuisine Norihisa Maeda, who ensures that only the best ingredients make their way to the dining table. He attributes this to his dedication to kaiseki, a traditional multi-course dinner where each element (cooked in various styles) is thoughtfully and artistically presented. “The crux of kaiseki is preserving the original flavours, the umami of the ingredient. The courses need to balance taste, texture and presentation, creating a sense of harmony while pleasing the palate,” enthuses Maeda.
Steamed Red Sea Bream and Vegetables is an exemplary display of Maeda’s talents. He retains the robust umami flavour of the fish by steaming, as well as allowing the succulent juices to flavour the vegetables laying beneath. Likewise, a prized A5 Wagyu from Yaeyama, Okinawa is slowly cooked till the luscious fat melts before a quick sear on the teppan. The crown in the jewel is a sprinkling of Okinawan sea salt and an accompanying nub of fresh wasabi from Shizouka. They further accentuate the meat’s natural flavours that goes swimmingly with their impressive list of exclusive sake, including the coveted Daiginjo varieties. Regardless of the dish, a distinctive touch of elegance can be savoured in every bite and more so in a tasting menu curated by Maeda, himself.
Over at the sushi counter is 35-year-old rising star, Hideki Fujikawa. The disciple of Tsutomu Shimamiya, the revered master of Edomae-style sushi and chef-owner of Hokkaido’s two Michelin-starred Sushi Zen, has moved from Hokkaido to Macau to share with an international audience the authentic taste of Japanese sushi.
“The courses need to balance taste, texture and presentation, creating a sense of harmony while pleasing the palate.” - Chef de Cuisine, Norihisa Maeda
The young chef attributes his beginnings to special moments with his family, where food – particularly, sushi – is often enjoyed during festivals and celebrations. With a dream that everyone should experience the same joy, he applied for a position at various sushi restaurants. He caught the attention of Shimamiya and flew up the ranks in lightning speed; he became a sushi counter chef in just three years.
Now, Fujikawa is a tour de force behind the counter. Mesmerising diners with swift yet delicate movements, he offers inimitable sushi that echoes Shimamiya’s teachings and his inventive spirit. In the Ootoro (fatty tuna) Sushi, Fujikawa executes his master’s precise movements to dress organic Tsuyahime rice grains, cooked in Kanon spring water, with the fattiest section of a tuna fish - for a melt-in-your-mouth experience. The Homemade Smoked Salmon Marinated with Soy Sauce, on the other hand, layers Japanese wild salmon with roe before being smoked with Sakura wood. When asked about his inspirations, he simply admits, “While my sushi skills remain authentic, experiencing the varied dining cultures in Macau has allowed me to offer sushi that’s a reflection of my culinary style.”
While the extensive menu may feel overwhelming at the start, there are no set rules when it comes to dining at Mizumi. One thing for sure, however, is that with such an illustrious team paving every step of the way for an unforgettable night, it would simply be best to leave it to the chefs. Opens on Mondays, Wednesdays to Sundays, from 5:30pm to 11:30pm. Address: G/F, Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau. Tel: +853 8986 3663. wynnmacau.com