Epicure

Despite a difficult and damp year, 2008 is proving to be one of Champagne’s most collectibl­e vintages.

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Dom Pérignon 2008 Legacy Edition

This limited edition bottling marks the end of one era and the beginning of a new. Longtime chef de cave Richard Geoffrey handed over the baton to Vincent Chaperon in 2019, having achieved remarkable successes with new concepts like the Plenitude – the plateaux of Champagne as it ages. The 2008 release is notably slender and youthful, with hints of oyster shell salinity and slight smokiness leading to the elegant, long finish. Its acidity lends well to playful pairings, for instance, beef tartare to amplify its texture. The Legacy Edition comes with names of both Geoffrey and Chaperon etched on the label. $561 from millésima.sg

Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année 2008

One of the last remaining Champagne houses to ferment all their premium expression­s in oak, Bollinger even has the only in-house cooper in Champagne to tend to their 3,500 barrels. Their 2008 La Grand Année is composed of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, as befits their strong holdings in Pinot Noir crus, namely Aÿ and Verzenay. The wine is fruity, spicy and complex with wild peach, plum and orange peel, complement­ed with a dense, mineral aspect. Enjoyable now with scallops or lobster, or further cellar for panache. $265 from enoteca.com.sg

Champagne J.L. Vergnon Confidence Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2008

Located in Le Mesnil-sur-oger, it’s no surprise that this fifth-generation grower Champagne is well-known for its finely wrought Chardonnay, much from old vines. Its current philosophy sees grapes that are harvested ripe, so as to avoid chaptalisa­tion. The Confidence cuvee was the first to be made using parcels vinified separately, befitting its name and zero dosage. Enjoy the fine, animated bubbles as a subtle wave of white flowers and lemon meringue reach your nose. On palate, it’s pronounced and precise, with biscuit, saline and green apple notes bringing to a charming finish. $124 from Berry Bros. & Rudd Singapore

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