RYDRO ANTON
head chef of Gaggan
Having lived outside Indonesia since he was 11 years old, Rydo Anton has made a career for himself as a chef. The 30-year-old has been calling Bangkok home for the last seven years and industriously worked at the legendary Gaggan, which is currently No. 4 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 list.
Tell us about your early years in Indonesia.
I was born and raised in Jakarta. Due to my dad’s job, we had to move to other cities like Lampung, Medan, and Semarang. I remember the food in Semarang very fondly because we lived there for six years; tasty spring rolls, nasi liwet ayam, and high pressure cooked smoked milkfish with sambal. I left Indonesia to study in Kuala Lumpur, and then later, at a culinary academy in Switzerland. How did you decide to join Gaggan in 2013? I like Bangkok and heard about this progressive Indian restaurant. I eventually met Gaggan Anand, did a trial for him, and have been here ever since. It has been quite a ride. Anand gives me plenty of room to grow and over the years. I’ve learned from the very best on how to lead, manage people, build a strong team, stay consistent, and plan five steps ahead.
Is consistency the reason for Gaggan’s wild success over the years?
It is one of the reasons. The other is that we continue to challenge ourselves. We create three to four different menus per year and we challenge ourselves to get it even better than the last one. Anand and I understand each other’s background perfectly. Together with the team, we will sit down, pick each other’s brain, and come up with out-of-thebox ideas. Our current menu is interactive and fun. In one of the courses, we even have to blindfold our guests.
Gaggan will close in June 2020. What’s next for you?
I will be in charge of our new restaurant concept, which will open in our current location. I am trying to find a way to showcase my interpretation of Indonesian cuisine there, making it a crossroad of different flavours. I am in the process of re-educating myself on the familiar flavours that I grew up with, and digging deeper into the complex regional dishes.
How much do you identify yourself with Indonesia?
I don’t believe in the term of “citizen of the world”. Everybody was born somewhere, spent some time in that country and formed a bond. I will always call Indonesia my home. It’s not always perfect. Career-wise, I found my opportunity outside my home, but I believe by being where I am now, I can create a bigger impact.