MAK­ING SENSE OF PAIR­INGS

Epicure - - RAISING THE BAR -

Olivier Krug, sixth gen­er­a­tion of the fam­ily and di­rec­tor of the House of Krug, re­in­forces the link be­tween Cham­pagne and sound, over the launch of the 2006 vin­tage and Grande Cu­vée 167.

Krug is the rich­est mu­sic in Cham­pagne. We’ve fol­lowed re­cent re­search that shows how hear­ing can change the tast­ing ex­pe­ri­ence.

Each in­di­vid­ual plot and its wine is con­sid­ered a fine mu­si­cian, con­tribut­ing its own char­ac­ter and vi­tal­ity to the fi­nal blends. To cre­ate a good Cham­pagne ev­ery year, we must have good mu­si­cians.

The vin­tage 2006 is themed ‘capri­cious in­dul­gence’ – we were ex­pect­ing catas­tro­phe, but the winds turned north and the rain dried out. You get the rich­ness from heat and gen­eros­ity from wa­ter.

Close your eyes to tune out one of your senses, to al­low your sense of sound and taste to fo­cus more.

For vin­tage 2006, we chose the pi­anist Kris Bow­ers (of movie Green Book fame) to com­pose a few special pieces for us. The Krug Grande Cu­vée 167 is a blend of around 190 in­stru­ments (wines) from 12 years or more, and is ex­cep­tion­ally fresh with rich and tangy grape­fruit. I am a huge fan of the im­mer­sive sounds of Ozark Henry with Grand Cu­vée.

Krug is avail­able from fine re­tail­ers in­clud­ing The Oaks Cel­lar

Best Som­me­lier in Ire­land and co-cre­ator of Exsto Co­gnac, Julie Dupouy ex­plains how she re­lies on scent while tast­ing and blend­ing.

I can’t work when I can’t smell. You can tell a lot more from the nose of a wine or Co­gnac than from sight. I loved smelling things when grow­ing up in Toulouse, and wanted to work in the per­fume in­dus­try.

To be a bet­ter taster, I make my own de­odor­ant and don’t own any per­fume. I use a nat­u­ral tooth­paste, Weleda Salt, which doesn’t have any taste.

When I was work­ing on Exsto, nos­ing was my most im­por­tant sense. I was given blind sam­ples of eaux-de-vie from Co­gnac and wanted to choose a style that had ele­gance and a fin­ger­print, some­thing special.

For the Exsto Elixir blend, we used less than 10 eaux-de-vie that are be­tween 10 and 35 years old with just a hint of oak in­flu­ence to al­low the spirit to shine.

For the Or Im­pe­rial blend, of which only 888 bot­tles were made, the eaux-de-vie with an av­er­age age of 60 were so spe­cific, they called out to me.

To­day, we are los­ing not only our sense of smell but the abil­ity to feed our­selves prop­erly, as our food is be­ing con­tam­i­nated by chem­i­cals.

Exsto is dis­trib­uted by Tai Thong Wine and Spir­its

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