FARO

Epicure - - FOOD FEATURE -

AD­DRESS: 10F GINZA SHISEIDO BUILD­ING, 8-8-3 GINZA, CHUO-KU, TOKYO 104-0061 JA­PAN TEL: +81 3 3572 3911

For Faro, the Ital­ian restau­rant run by Shiseido group, go­ing ve­gan is their call­ing. The restau­rant wel­comed Ko­taro Noda, chef of one-miche­lin-starred “Bistrot64” in Rome in 2018, and since then, they have pre­sented mod­ern Ital­ian cui­sine with an em­pha­sis on serv­ing ve­gan cour­ses and ve­gan non-al­co­hol pair­ing menus. “For ve­gan dishes, we don’t use an­i­mal-ori­ented in­gre­di­ents. So, it is im­por­tant to have drink-pair­ing flavours that in­tro­duce com­plex­ity and el­e­vate the din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence. Adding acid­ity and tan­nin is the key, as both af­fect the sen­so­rium of taste buds. As you sip from the drink, new as­pects in the flavour will come up, and that can be a sat­is­fy­ing ex­pe­ri­ence for din­ers,” said Noda. He cre­ated a veg­etable- and fruit juice-pair­ing menu as an al­ter­na­tive for those with caf­feine in­tol­er­ance and for the health con­scious. Last De­cem­ber, he pre­sented a special two-night col­lab­o­ra­tion with “One story”, a plat­form that con­nects pas­sion­ate farm­ers with top chefs. The menu fea­tured “Lotus Root Ravi­oli” made with lotus root and sea­sonal fresh Saga nori sea­weed, paired with a fer­mented pa­paya, lemon­grass and chilli con­coc­tion in­spired by “som­tam”, a Thai green pa­paya salad. It com­ple­mented the oys­ter-like umami flavour from the ravi­oli, and the spici­ness en­hanced the sweet­ness of lotus root. Som­me­lier Kakeru Kawauchi, who led the drink-pair­ing event said, “For the dish, we high­lighted the acid­ity from the cit­rus, and to en­hance the flavour even more, I used chilli for that ex­tra kick.” For the Caned­erli with beet­root sauce, pair­ing was done with Ja­panese cas­sis cooked in syrup. They sep­a­rated the cooked cas­sis from the syrup, dried it, pow­dered it, dripped it like cof­fee, and blended it with the syrup again. “Dif­fer­ent tem­per­a­tures bring out dif­fer­ent flavours in cas­sis” said Kawauchi.

Noda shared that he was in­spired by the flavours of juices, which are high­lighted so in­tri­cately by som­me­liers at Faro. “Go­ing ve­gan might seem re­stric­tive for some people, but for me, it al­lows me to be more cre­ative, es­pe­cially in a drink-pair­ing menu cu­rated to­gether with our som­me­liers.”

“JUICE PAIR­ING ADDS COM­PLEX­ITY TO PLANT-BASED DISHES, AND THAT MAKES THE DISHES MORE EX­PRES­SIVE. AS A RE­SULT, THIS MUL­TI­PLIER EF­FECT GIVES MORE DEPTH TO THE DINER’S EX­PE­RI­ENCE.“

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