Epicure - - TRAVEL FEATURE -

culi­nary di­rec­tor of The Lo & Be­hold Group

The White Rab­bit in Moscow, Rus­sia comes to mind. The ta­ble my wife and I had was per­fect – we were in di­rect view of the sun­set – and that set the mood for the rest of the evening. The de­gus­ta­tion menu was a stun­ning show­case of the lo­cal pro­duce in each dish – the restau­rant man­ager in­tro­duced ev­ery in­gre­di­ent used as if he was read­ing po­etry. If you’ve watched the Net­flix’s Chef’s Ta­ble episode of White Rab­bit’s chef-owner Vladimir Mukhin, you will def­i­nitely re­mem­ber the iconic moose lips as part of the menu. Un­for­tu­nately dur­ing our visit there wasn’t any, but we had the chance to try a trea­sure trove of dishes. From freshly baked bread made from the bark of the birch tree, home­grown honey and wild straw­ber­ries and swan’s liver to the “orig­i­nal” liquour that Rus­sians used to drink (made from wheat be­fore vodka be­came a big hit). Af­ter our rather ful(l)fill­ing meal, we were each gifted a house­made scent of their lo­cal borodin­sky bread.

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