RUNS IN THE FAM­ILY

With four Bur­gundy winer­ies and an­other in Jura, Aurore Dev­il­lard of Château de Chamirey ex­em­pli­fies the French spirit of pat­ri­mony. By June Lee

Epicure - - VINE EXPECTATIO­NS -

Cut­ting a chic fig­ure, Aurore Monot-dev­il­lard has be­come a fa­mil­iar face at the an­nual La Paulee Bur­gundy tast­ing or­gan­ised by Vin­tage Wine Club in Sin­ga­pore. Seated next to her at dinner though, I hardly have time for a chat as she’s of­ten squired away by fel­low Bur­gundy vint­ners and wine afi­ciona­dos alike. “When your job is also a pas­sion, you never re­ally stop work­ing be­cause most of the time, you don’t feel like it’s work,” she later tells me, adding she knows how lucky she is. The vet­eran ex­ec­u­tive con­tin­ues, “But that can also be a trap, be­cause the job needs you to be en­dur­ing, per­se­ver­ing and highly fa­tiguere­sis­tant.” In any case, the typ­i­cally Bour­guignon food paired ex­cep­tion­ally well with the wines that night, not least as Aurore says, “be­cause pair­ing is not only about food, it’s a ques­tion of tim­ing and peo­ple.”

Mer­curey, Do­maine des Per­drix in Côte de Nuits, Do­maine de la Ferté in Givry and Do­maine de la Garenne in Mâ­con­nais; and a re­cently ac­quired Jura es­tate, Do­maine Ro­let.

Liv­ing in Mer­curey, she de­scribes a peace­ful vil­lage with more vines than in­hab­i­tants, and where she is wo­ken up by wild boars at times. To­gether with her fa­ther Ber­trand and brother Amaury, they pro­duce about 350,000 bot­tles of Bur­gundy an­nu­ally. It’s a tightknit fam­ily, brought even closer af­ter her mother passed away in De­cem­ber 2002. Aurore de­scribes the event as “an elec­tric shock”, which per­suaded her to get back to her roots, leav­ing be­hind her high-fly­ing ca­reer in the cos­met­ics in­dus­try work­ing for El­iz­a­beth Ar­den, Clar­ins and the Coty Group. Nat­u­rally, she wanted to be well-pre­pared, so she en­rolled at the Univer­sité de Bour­gogne to im­prove her knowl­edge on Bur­gundy ter­roirs and tast­ing prac­tices.

“My fa­ther Ber­trand will pro­duce his 52nd vin­tage in 2020,” she of­fers proudly. “He is one of the Bur­gundy wine­mak­ers who un­der­stood quickly the huge po­ten­tial of Bur­gundy and its

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