Roed­erer Es­tate Quar­tet Brut NV

Epicure - - CELLAR CHOICE -

De­spite be­ing es­tab­lished in Men­do­cino County since 1982, you might not have heard of Roed­erer’s Cal­i­for­nian out­post. Build­ing on the Cham­pagne la­bel’s 200 years of ex­per­tise, the vine­yards in An­der­son Val­ley were picked for their cool cli­mate and well-drained soils. The Brut NV com­pris­ing 60% Chardon­nay and 40% Pinot Noir weighs in at 12.5% ABV, with a fresh and gen­er­ous red fruit char­ac­ter at the fore­front. Toasty brioche from two years’ lees age­ing is bal­anced out by clean juicy acid­ity and aro­matic white flow­ers. En­joy as an aper­i­tif or paired with white meat. $60 from grand­

This third-gen­er­a­tion Rioja wine fam­ily has much to be proud of, not least hav­ing its own cooper­age and pur­ported to em­ploy the only cooper left in Spain. Their stock of 10,000 bar­rels mostly go to the flag­ship reds, but don’t over­look the Cava un­der their Conde de Haro la­bel. The house white is a 90% Viura and 10% Mal­va­sia blend that is bar­rel fer­mented yet gives no im­pres­sion of colour ox­i­da­tion in the glass. Its per­sis­tence and hon­eyed notes are buoyed by sur­pris­ing cit­rus acid­ity and a creamy full­ness on the palate.

$52 from Cel­lar­mas­ter,

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