Opener

Esquire (Singapore) - - Contents -

Sauces and grill.

The­brains­be­hindKap­poShun­suiandFiveNi­ne­shaveanew­con­cept:Kyu­ubyShun­sui,where the sauces and the ro­batayaki (slow grill over hot char­coal) take cen­tre stage. Hail­ing from one-Miche­lin starred Akasaka Tan­tei in Tokyo, Chef Issey Araki is tasked with the or­ches­tra­tion of Kyuu. For our 10-course omakase, his open­ing salvo of three ap­pe­tis­ers—Fresh Fig with Su­miso ( miso, rice vine­gar and se­same paste), Homemade Se­same Tofu slathered in wasabi and bekko-an sauce ( dashi, soy sauce, mirin and sugar), and Soft Sim­mered Duck in homemade miso (uh, you know, the usual fer­mented soya beans)—eased us into the sea­sonal sashimi. The tempo picked up—an al­le­gro!— with the grilled por­tion of the menu: King Crab with vine­gar and su­dachi lime, Big Sized Prawn, and even Fruits Tomato, charred on the out­side, but plump and juicy in­side. Fi­nally, we reached the crescendo, Hokkaido Rice Nanat­su­b­oshi, where Chef Issey piled on salmon roe pre-soaked in dashi while vo­cal­is­ing an ebul­lient “yoisho” on re­peat. (“Yoisho” is an un­trans­lat­able ex­cla­ma­tion.) This gen­er­ous show­case lasts un­til the guest cries “un­cle” or if the ridicu­lous amount of roe run­neth over your rice bowl even by ki­asu Sin­ga­porean stan­dards.

YOISHO!

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