Sauces and grill.
ThebrainsbehindKappoShunsuiandFiveNineshaveanewconcept:KyuubyShunsui,where the sauces and the robatayaki (slow grill over hot charcoal) take centre stage. Hailing from one-Michelin starred Akasaka Tantei in Tokyo, Chef Issey Araki is tasked with the orchestration of Kyuu. For our 10-course omakase, his opening salvo of three appetisers—Fresh Fig with Sumiso ( miso, rice vinegar and sesame paste), Homemade Sesame Tofu slathered in wasabi and bekko-an sauce ( dashi, soy sauce, mirin and sugar), and Soft Simmered Duck in homemade miso (uh, you know, the usual fermented soya beans)—eased us into the seasonal sashimi. The tempo picked up—an allegro!— with the grilled portion of the menu: King Crab with vinegar and sudachi lime, Big Sized Prawn, and even Fruits Tomato, charred on the outside, but plump and juicy inside. Finally, we reached the crescendo, Hokkaido Rice Nanatsuboshi, where Chef Issey piled on salmon roe pre-soaked in dashi while vocalising an ebullient “yoisho” on repeat. (“Yoisho” is an untranslatable exclamation.) This generous showcase lasts until the guest cries “uncle” or if the ridiculous amount of roe runneth over your rice bowl even by kiasu Singaporean standards.