VIETNAM: City to Coast

Vietnam’s Hanoi and Halong Bay prove to be the perfect destinations for a tenth-anniversary trip for AMY BROOKPARTRIDGE and hubby James.

I’m not sure if it’s to do with my age, being a parent, or my increasing reticence to flash the flesh in swimmers, but beach holidays hold little appeal for me nowadays – which brings me happily in line with James, who never really liked them in the first place. I’ll admit that it was primarily my addiction to pho, rather than James’s interest in history, that made me put a pin in Vietnam as the favoured destinations for our tenth wedding anniversary; and the pairing of a trip to the historic city of Hanoi with a cruise through the UNESCO World Heritage site of Halong Bay seemed an easy choice.

DAY 1

Arriving early evening, and feeling fresh after a breezy three- and- a- half- hour Silkair flight from Singapore, we were delivered by taxi to our first hotel for the night. Having scoured Tripadvisor for a low- cost boutique hotel, I was overwhelmed by the number of two- and three-star hotels in the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Ultimately, I opted for La Beauté de Hanoi. Right in the middle of the action, it was clean, with helpful staff and some lovely hints of French architecture. We were, however, on the second floor, and with the benefit of hindsight I would have requested a much higher level. The constant noise and buzz of the city, which is all part of the appeal when you’re awake, is in no way fun when you’re trying to sleep!

Keen to get a taste of the city, we headed first to Avalon Café Lounge (avalon.vn), a rooftop bar within a five-minute walk. This in itself was an adventure, as traffic and pedestrians share the roads in a crazy, symbiotic way. We were given a sheet by our hotel that explained how to cross the road – make eye contact with the drivers, don’t hesitate or step back – but it’s easier said than done when you’ve come from a country where jaywalking is a serious offence.

Avalon is a fantastic place to sit and watch the mayhem below, and we enjoyed a cocktail or two before heading to New Day Restaurant (newdayrestaurant.com), a cheap and cheerful Vietnamese eatery that comes highly recommended, and rightly so. With locals and tourists sharing tables, the place has a great vibe, and the delicious food comes quickly. We then headed off for a nearby foot massage before an early bedtime, in order to be ready for our 7am bus departure for Halong Bay.

DAY 2

The journey from Hanoi to Halong Bay is four hours, and slightly tedious. Take something to read or download a good movie onto your ipad, and make yourself comfy. Halfway through the journey, you’re dropped at a café-cum-tourist spot where it seems that every coach on its way to Halong Bay stops. Prices for the tat on offer are double what you would pay in Hanoi, so beware.

Our two-day, one-night trip was with Paradise Cruises, who arranged the transfer from city to coast. While waiting to be ushered to the boat, we helped ourselves to coffee and snacks in the relatively new Paradise Hotel at the port, all part of the service. Not really knowing what to expect, and having never been on a cruise before, when we did reach the boat – Paradise Luxury 4 – we were glad it wasn’t monstrous, and that it had a sweet, rustic style.

At first glance, our cruise itinerary looked like we wouldn’t have much time to relax, but this truly wasn’t the case. A delicious three-course lunch and bottle of rosé was followed by a kayak trip to Luon Cave – we were the only ones to actually capsize (perhaps something to do with the wine), but at least we got to have a swim.

DAY 3

The second day of our cruise saw us arrive at Sung Sot Cave, where we hiked up and down around 600 steps to see the magnificent limestone formations of the biggest cave in Halong Bay. Thankfully, ours was one of the first boats to arrive – the caves can fill up fast with tourists. Although our tour guide tried to talk us through the background of the caves, with the number of other visitors and the echoing acoustics, I’d recommend doing some research of your own before visiting, so you can take in the sights while you’re there.

Breakfast followed, then we checked out and said goodbye to the very accommodating cruise staff and our fellow passengers. Lunch was provided back at the Paradise Hotel in the port; from there, we set off on our four-hour journey back to Hanoi.

We arrived at our next overnight stop, the Apricot Hotel, by mid-afternoon. Positioned as a luxury property, it’s situated right opposite Hoan Kiem Lake. There are great views from the rooftop, where the pool and gym are situated; however, as the former was closed for routine cleaning, we were forced to use the latter instead – but that was probably a good thing!

The concierge recommended Porte D’annam restaurant close to Hanoi’s St Joseph’s Cathedral; it was opened by Didier Corlou, a chef who previously worked at the Hotel Metropole, and who is behind as many as four restaurants in Hanoi. After enjoying a cocktail in the glitzy hotel lobby bar, we walked to the restaurant just around the corner. The tempting menu of Vietnamese cuisine, including fresh rolls of prawn and mango, and green papaya with crab, was reasonably priced, and we were seriously impressed with the food.

Back at the hotel, we propped up the beautiful bar for a while before sloping off to bed. We’d made the decision earlier to go to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum the next morning, and to avoid the prospective crowds we wanted to get there nice and early.

DAY 4

Our taxi got us to the mausoleum at 8am, and there were already a number of people queuing up. Be prepared to hand in any cameras or phones, as well as your handbag, and dress modestly (don’t wear shorts, tank tops or hats). The queue moved quickly enough and we were soon at the entrance to the mausoleum – be prepared to walk at a slow and steady pace when inside; don’t stop moving, and don’t put your hands in your pockets or talk.

While the viewing is fast and efficient, there’s plenty more to see in the palace grounds, including house number 54 where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954, plus his house on stilts and the presidential palace. There’s also a museum, where we learnt that Ho Chi Minh had actually requested to be cremated, and his ashes scattered in South, North and Central Vietnam to signify harmony. Instead, his body was embalmed and housed in the mausoleum, a monumental marble edifice built for the purpose; and as our tour guide said with a shrug, he can’t complain now.

Back at the hotel we devoured some delicious breakfast buffet food, before checking out and heading to our next and final stop, the Hotel Metropole Hanoi (part of the Sofitel hotel group). Today was also the day of our wedding anniversary, and after a busy few days we were looking forward to relaxing and doing very little. Unbeknownst to me, James had upgraded us to a suite – a very welcome touch. Our luxurious room came with access to the Club Lounge on the seventh floor, where afternoon tea and evening cocktails are all part of the deal.

After lunching buffet-style in the Spice Garden restaurant, we then retired to the pool, and at 5pm joined the complimentary Path of History tour of the hotel. This includes a visit to the hotel’s bomb shelter, which had been sealed and remained so until its chance rediscovery by the engineering department during the renovation of the poolside Bamboo Bar in 2011. The shelter had served to protect guests, including singer Joan Baez and actress Jane Fonda, from the air raids during the American War (1964 to 1973).

That evening, and continuing our pledge to not step foot outside the hotel, we enjoyed a cocktail before dining at Le Beaulieu. The French restaurant’s large windows overlook the streets outside, and with its opulent lighting and décor adding to the ambience, you could easily think you’re in a restaurant in Paris.

DAY 5

Knowing it was our last day in Hanoi, we woke with a sense of sadness, and so relied heavily on our masseuses at the hotel spa to help relieve our increasing tension. Another lie by the pool, a session at the gym and a final relaxation in our luxurious room, and then we were whisked off back through the crazy streets of Hanoi and to our return flight home.