Dairy Diary:
Given the amount of dairy consumed in our lifetime, we thought it was high time we actually understood the different variations that make up the market’s mega-daunting milk aisle.
Which milk and why?
From real-deal dairy to plant-based like almond and soy, the milk selection these days is vast. Cow’s milk alone is hard enough to choose between; what exactly is the difference between UHT skim, non-homogenised low-fat and organic full cream? Here we break down the different types of this supermarket staple, so you can determine what’s best for you and your family.
From pasture to pasteurisation
First things first: pasteurisation, the process in which milk is heated to destroy potentially harmful bacteria, is a must when it comes to all cow’s milk (or any mammal’s milk, for that matter) sold in Singapore, and in most parts of the world. The sale of raw milk (straight from the cow, or unpasteurised) for human consumption is prohibited due to safety concerns outlined by government agencies – these include the Singapore Food Agency (SFA), America’s Federal Drug Administration (FDA), and Food Safety Australia and New Zealand (FSANZ), among many others. While raw milk activists claim otherwise, these agencies assert that pasteurisation does not reduce milk’s overall nutritional value, and they feel that the benefits of pasteurisation outweigh the potential disease-causing risks.
For effective pasteurisation, milk must be heated to at least 62.8 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes (low-temp pasteurisation, also known as VAT). However, most milks on the market are heated to at least 72 degrees Celsius for 15 seconds; known as high-temperature short-time (HTST) pasteurisation, this method keeps milk fresh for two to three weeks. Also common is ultra-heat treatment (UHT) pasteurisation, where milk is heated to at least 135 degrees Celsius for a minimum of two seconds (and immediately aseptically packed in sterile containers), killing all harmful bacteria. This gives the product a shelf life of up to nine months – that’s why some milk doesn’t need to be refrigerated until opened.
So, why isn’t all milk ultra heat-treated? Because the process affects the flavour; higher heat can create a sweeter taste, which some people simply don’t like. Also, many dairies, particularly smaller ones, favour lower temperature pasteurisation to keep milk as close to its natural state as possible. One of these is Fleurieu Milk Company, an award-winning South Australian dairy whose products are available in Singapore.
There’s also extended shelf-life (ESL) milk, which is filtered before the pasteurisation process, then heated to 125 degrees Celsius for 10 to 15 seconds. A cross between fresh milk and UHT, this micro-filtered milk can be kept in the fridge for up to three weeks, making it a good option for those who don’t go grocery shopping often. Larger dairies like Western Australia’s Brownes Dairy, for instance, produce ESL milk to ensure greater flexibility in reaching more widespread markets.
Additionally, some milks are pasteurised twice if they are repacked at a location that’s far removed from the dairy; this is the case for most of the milks that are packed locally after arriving in Singapore.
To homogenise or not to homogenise?
Separate from pasteurisation, homogenisation isn’t carried out for safety reasons but rather for texture and taste. The process breaks down fat molecules so they resist separation, creating a more consistent-tasting product with an even amount of milkfat in each sip. When milk isn’t homogenised, the fat particles rise to the top, forming a thick layer of cream. Many milk drinkers love the “oldfashioned” look and taste of the creamy layer, while others don’t – it depends on personal taste.
Additionally, some argue that smaller fat molecules mean more efficient digestion. Others, however, feel that non-homogenised is better because the milk has undergone one less process, keeping things as “unchanged” as possible. While larger-scale dairies normally homogenise milk for a longer shelf, many smaller dairies – Fleurieu among them – offer non- homogenised milk options, just “as nature intended”.
Full cream, fat-free and everything in between
Choosing how much fat is in the milk you buy is once again a matter of personal taste and needs. While whole milk has around 8 grams of fat per cup, reduced-fat milk (also known as “two percent” because the milkfat, or butterfat, is two percent of the total weight of the milk) has approximately 3.8 to 5 grams of fat per cup. Then there are low-fat (about 2.5 grams of fat per cup) and skim (fat-free) varieties. All these types of milk may have the same amount of vitamin D, protein and other nutrients, but the fat content is the primary element that changes the taste, flavour and feel of the milk. (You just can’t deny the richer and creamier texture of full cream milk…) While low-fat and fat-free milk have been considered by many as the “healthier” options since the 1980s, full-fat dairy has made a comeback in recent years. Studies have suggested links between full-fat dairy consumption and lower rates of obesity, heart disease and diabetes; it’s also argued that high-fat dairy products keep people more satiated.
Similarly, fat helps with nutrient absorption; it’s been shown that children who drank whole milk were able to better absorb vitamin D than their peers who drank low-fat milk, for instance.
On the farm
Did you know that the breed of the cow, as well as the cow’s diet, affects the composition of milk? Jersey cow milk, for instance, is believed to be more suitable for people who have a tendency to be lactose intolerant and has been linked to lower rates of coronary heart disease and diabetes. This is according to Fleurieu Milk Company, which produces a Jersey Premium range of milk products made from Jersey cows, along with a range called Farm Fresh, made from Holstein Fresian cows milked within 500 metres of the factory. Since the milk is packed at the source, it doesn’t have to be repacked and re-pasteurised after transit to Singapore.
Farming practices also determine the nutritional makeup and taste of milk. Organic and biodynamic dairy farms, for instance, must comply with stricter standards than those of conventional dairy farms, including what goes into the cows’ bodies and their quality of life. (Did you know that cows who lead a stress-free life are said to produce better-tasting milk?) Certified milk must come from cows that haven’t been given antibiotics or growth hormones, and whose feed is grown without chemical fertilisers, pesticides or genetically modified organisms ( GMOS). Among the biodynamic milk available in Singapore is that from another award-winning South Australian dairy, Paris Creek Farms; its range includes everything from non-homogenised “cream on top” milk to homogenised reduced-fat milk and other dairy products.
So, what milk is best?
There’s no real answer here, so you should try them all to determine the type that suits your taste, dietary needs and even sustainability standards. A good place to start is Open Taste, an online platform that gives consumers in Singapore the opportunity to shop fresh dairy products, along with vegetables, fruit, meat and a variety of pantry goods from around the world, at wholesale prices (often 30 to 50 percent cheaper than in supermarkets and specialty online grocers). It offers a wide range of milks – including homogenised and non-homogenised – from the aforementioned Aussie dairies, Paris Creek Farms and Fleurieu Milk Company. The products are pasteurised once only, and, to maximise freshness, are airflown direct from Australia rather than repacked locally, before being delivered to your door within 36 hours of placing an order.
Find out more at opentaste.com.sg.