Indian cuisine with an edge

From flavourful curries to freshly made flatbreads, Indian cuisine is adored not just for its taste but also its versatility, as it caters to both vegetarians and meat lovers. Here we review four Indian restaurants at different price points.

Shahi Maharani

With its long-standing history of 23 years, this family-run spot is among the most prominent Indian restaurants in Singapore. Dressed in traditional wood-focused décor, it’s a grand setup that almost makes you feel like you’ve been transported to the regal palaces of India.

As I arrived, my expectations were high – every dining experience I’ve had at Shahi Maharani has trumped the previous one! And this visit didn’t disappoint. Fans of tandoori dishes will love the savoury selection of vegetarian and meaty options cooked in a traditional clay tandoor. The Tandoori Milawat ($45.00) includes a fab assortment of meats; sink your teeth into tender chicken tikka, flaky barramundi tikka, juicy lamb kebabs and charred garlic prawns, served on a sizzling platter for good measure. Another starter we loved was the Bhindi ($16): okra fritters deep-fried to perfection in an addictive batter – delightfully crisp and light, with the right amount of bite. With the accompanying yoghurt dip, we scoffed down the lot before the main spread arrived.

I can’t imagine anyone trying the prawn korma ($36) and not loving it. A rich blend of cashews, cottage cheese, spices and succulent prawns, this creamy concoction is best enjoyed with a generous mound of fragrant saffron rice ($11) and a garlic naan ($8) – my go-to carbs of choice at the restaurant. The palak paneer ($28) – thick chunks of cottage cheese in a rich spinach sauce – was another favourite.

Despite being stuffed by now, we knew we had to have a taste of the kulfi before leaving. The kulfi sampler platter ($17) gets you a mix of flavours for variety. Standouts for us were the pistachio and saffron, which were super fragrant and not too sweet. The perfect end to an amazing feast!

Anthia Chng

#03–21B Raffles City Shopping Centre, 252 North Bridge Road 6235 8840 | shahimaharani.com

Yantra

Occupying a grand and luxurious space at Tanglin Mall, Yantra’s interior oozes finesse, with tasteful décor and polished and polite service. If you’re here for date night, I recommend arriving at least half an hour early to enjoy an alfresco tipple at swanky adjoining bar, Metta – the cocktail menu is one of the best I’ve seen in Singapore!

The food menu, meanwhile, covers a vast variety of dishes from Rajasthan to West Bengal, with both classics and ingenious twists concocted by Chef Pinaki Ray. We followed his lead and opted to sample both the vegetarian and non-vegetarian set menus ($68), while he charismatically told us the tale and history behind each dish.

Our meals began with an homage to Indian street food (chaat) in the form of an amuse bouche of Dahi Puri and Papdi Chaat – single-bite sensations of sweet and tangy chutney with a wafer-thin crunch.

From there, each dish outshone the last – from the lingering smoky aftertaste of the Macher Paturi (seabass with mustard and coconut marinade cooked in banana leaves) to the sinful Dahl Makhani, simmered overnight in the tandoor, and the Rajasthani Lal Maans, a fiery lamb curry made with the rich Mathania chillies that can only be found in India’s arid state of Rajasthan.

We finished with a delicately plated trio of classic Indian desserts; all were divine, particularly the Gajar Halwa, a creamy carrot, cardamom and cinnamon pudding that had me vowing to return to India as soon as the travel gods allow!

Leanda Rathmell

163 Tanglin Road, #01-28/33 6836 3088 | yantra.com.sg

Kolkata Beckons

This is Indian food as you’ve not tasted before: aromatic yet delicate, with the sentiment of “less is more”. Both in its cooking style and portions, you’ll first think it’s not enough, and then you’ll feel wonderfully full! The curries, tandooris, sauces and side dishes are slow-cooked with natural herbs; other cooking techniques include steam technology and air frying with mustard oil. Not much onion, garlic and tomatoes are used. And the flavours? Subtle but delicious.

One of my favourite dishes here is the Kolkata Roll ($10.90), a crispy, flaky bread rolled with paneer tikka, spices and a variety of veggies including onions and capsicums. Also amazing is the vegetarian biryani ($19.90); it’s not only free from colouring and additives, but the cooking style allows the flavours to seep slowly into the biryani, which is made with raw jackfruit for a meat-like texture.

While I’m mainly vegetarian, I’ve eaten here with non-vegetarians and they raved about the tender Kosha Mangsho (mutton pot roast; $22.90). Another great dish is Macher Paturi ($21.90), sea bass fillet marinated with French mustard, green chilli and parsley. It’s steamed and coalroasted in banana leaf – really good!

For dessert, try the Nalen Gurer Sondesh ($9.90), made of freshly curdled cottage cheese roasted with dates and baked with a smoked flavour – not sweet but very moreish.

Rebecca Bisset

52 Race Course Road | 6291 5244 | reservation@kolkatabeckons.com.sg kolkatabeckons.com.sg