A SAFE SPACE

There’s nothing wrong with being commercial. The founders of four of Singapore’s most popular labels share what they’ve learnt about +65 style.

IN RECENT YEARS, SOME OF THE LOCAL FASHION LABELS THAT HAVE FOUND THE MOST POPULARITY AND COMMERCIAL SUCCESS MIGHT SEEM TO SHARE SOME THINGS IN COMMON: DESIGNS THAT ARE MINIMALIST AND PRACTICAL, AND AN EMPHASIS ON VERSATILITY AND COMFORT. IN FACT, SO CONSISTENTLY DO THESE TERMS POP UP ACROSS INTERVIEWS WITH THEIR FOUNDERS THAT WE CAN’T HELP BUT THINK: IS THIS THE EMERGENCE OF A DEFINITIVE SINGAPORE STYLE? REBECCA RACHEL WONG FINDS OUT FROM FOUR NAMES PUTTING THEIR OWN SPIN ON THE GENRE.

BESSIE YE, FOUNDER AND HEAD DESIGNER OF R Y E – Prior to starting the brand that just hit its fifth year in the business, the fashion design graduate from Temasek Polytechnic honed her craft at a string of successful local labels and retailers, as well as the Sydney-based Japanese designer Akira Isogawa. Her cool and modern eye, and expertise with cut and fabric choices have earned her a following among some of Singapore’s most trendsetting creatives.

ON HER AESTHETIC “Composed, simple, understated, timelessly elegant. I’ve always been attracted to Japanese and Scandinavian simplicity where less is more and one should buy less, but better. This philosophy is very rooted not just in r y e (she prefers to spell the brand’s name in lower case), but also the way I think, live, eat and design... Often, people think that simple-looking pieces are easy to make, but they’re usually the most challenging.”

HER SIGNATURE ITEM “There are a few styles that have sustained demand over the years: our Modal muscle tee, flared Cupro pants and ribbed knit tanks (she’s wearing the last two in the picture here). They’re what people can rely on whenever they face what I call ‘wardrobe decision fatigue’.”

ON WHAT SINGAPORE CONSUMERS WANT “Fuss-free pieces that have mileage and friendly price tags.”

DEFINING MOMENT IN SINGAPORE FASHION “The early 2000s when multi-label concept stores carrying niche brands were a big deal. The most memorable was the now-defunct Front Row, which was originally located at Ann Siang Hill and then Raffles Hotel and brought in international cult brands like A.P.C. and Lemaire as well as progressive Thai fashion brands, and was a big supporter of up-and-coming home-grown designers. It was a time when creativity and uniqueness were highly valued.”

ON BEING MORE EXPERIMENTAL “There are times when we want to create something ‘off the grid’, but whether we ultimately do or not will depend on factors such as budget and demand. If the risk is calculated and justifiable, why not? That said, being called safe doesn’t have any negative connotations to me. We’re not in a competition to be judged as groundbreaking. I’ll always remember why we started r y e in the first place: to offer perennially stylish, high-quality everyday wear with a focus on reinvented classics for the modern woman.”

XIE QIAN QIAN, FOUNDER OF GRAYE – Setting up store (and her studio) in a charming shophouse in Katong, the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts alumni has one of the most progressive approaches to casual and practical, made-for-all fashion here: Her fouryear-old label specialises in menswear and unisex styles with just the right (read: tasteful and modern) hint of Asian influences. Sustainability has also been a core value since its start with many of its pieces designed to be multiwear and its production processes as environmentally conscious as possible.

ON HER DESIGN PHILOSOPHY “We’re motivated to create products that are versatile and long-lasting, which also explains why we always think beyond gender. Instead, we focus on ideation and details while paying attention to the source and end life of the materials that we use. This slow and conscious design process is what shapes Graye.”

ON HOW SHE HOPES TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE FASHION SCENE HERE “Most local men’s labels specialise in tailoring and formal wear. We hope to introduce more interesting designs to the market and create a bridge between casual menswear and genderless dressing.”

HER SIGNATURE ITEM “Definitely our kimono jacket that’s been a part of every collection since the start. With the idea of combining Eastern and Western influences and the old with the new, we simplified the classic kimono and added a utilitarian touch (with the likes of a double welt pocket). It’s versatile, fashionable and friendly for our weather, and we introduce a new version with almost every new drop.”

ON THE SINGAPORE FASHION DESIGN SCENE “We’re not short of talent, especially young and emerging names who have passion and fresh ideas. However, a lack of materials and production houses can make it challenging to realise such ideas. As such, the scene tends to evolve more slowly than that in other cities and has less to offer. The closure of borders brought about by the pandemic has only further limited access to resources.”

ON BEING LABELLED AS SAFE “Style has no definite meaning. A garment considered safe to someone could be adventurous to another.”

ALICIA TSI, FOUNDER OF ESSE THE LABEL – The Singapore designer has been one of the strongest champions of sustainable fashion since starting her brand in 2017. Her designs – timelessly feminine with the occasional tomboy streak – are made from organic, renewable or biodegradable fibres, and launched in small capsules (and often on a pre-order basis) to reduce wastage, for example. The brand’s social responsibility goals for 2021 alone are ambitious. Among them: making sure that 50 per cent of its trims (read: the likes of threads, buttons and anything else attached to fabric used to create garments) are ethically sourced, as well as the launch of a repair programme to help achieve circularity.

ON BEING EXPERIMENTAL “My raison d’etre is to raise awareness for sustainability in fashion so everything that I do and what I choose to experiment in would need to have some longevity. I don’t believe in designing for design’s sake.”

HER SIGNATURE ITEM “One is the organic cotton maxi dress that’s extremely pared back, but I think that its neckline, which was designed to flatter all body shapes, is what makes it a standout. Another is the organic cotton trapeze top designed with the same neckline. It’s made of Global Organic Textile Standard-certified cotton that’s extremely lightweight and breathable.”

ON WHAT SINGAPORE CONSUMERS WANT “They’re increasingly savvy and want to be able to see value in their purchases, be it in a tangible or intangible way. This has to be communicated in terms of price, quality and design. They’re also looking for comfort.”

ON HOW THE LOCAL FASHION DESIGN SCENE SHOULD GROW “With more support from the government as well as investment or venture capital funding. The bulk of brands that make up our shopping scene are still international ones… There’s also a lack of investment in fashion weeks and trade shows, which means that many of our brands miss an opportunity to reach out to large-scale buyers. Add how more blog shops are evolving into fast fashion brands, making affordable clothes even cheaper and this creates further competition and a challenge to local brands that are more design-focused.”

JACLYN TEO (FAR RIGHT), CO-FOUNDER AND SALES & MARKETING DIRECTOR OF IN GOOD COMPANY (IGC) – Together with the brand’s three other co-founders (from near right: creative director Sven Tan, operations director Julene Aw and head of design Kane Tan), she’s considered a veteran. All four were part of another success story, the now-defunct Alldressedup that was stocked in the likes of Saks Fifth Avenue, before starting IGC in 2013. Besides being one of the first and most distinctive in focusing on elevated staples with minimalist, architectural lines and artful twists, the brand’s a fashion-meets-lifestyle pioneer, collaborating with like-minded players from other disciplines such as F&B from as early as five years ago when it opened its

Ion Orchard boutique.

ON WHAT SETS THE BRAND APART “It would probably be our efforts in R&D, ie paying attention to refining finishing details and utilising premium fabrics that can be found at an affordable price.”

THE BRAND’S SIGNATURE ITEM “A style of capri pants called Michela that’s been an evergreen bestseller since we started. We introduced it as a versatile staple that can be styled for any occasion. Its cropped length and proportions always manage to be a perfect fit (no alteration needed ever) and it’s a flattering cut for different body types.”

ON THE SINGAPORE FASHION DESIGN SCENE “There isn’t much of one because we don’t have a deep heritage in the art of modern dressmaking. Unlike other contemporaries in the US or Europe, designers here face the challenge of a lack of resources for inspiration and ample opportunities at established fashion companies to cut their teeth in the craft. We also do not have an ecosystem of suppliers, artisans, craftsmen and retailers locally to support an industry… We hope to inspire the next generation of fashion designers to focus on design and the art and science of dressmaking here at IGC.”

DEFINING MOMENT IN SINGAPORE FASHION “The early 2000s when we had fashion competitions – Kane, for example, took part in the Asian Young Fashion Designers contest in 2004 and came in second runner-up while Sven made it to the regional finals of the Mercedes-Benz Asia Fashion Awards the same year and won. These opportunities gave them more exposure and landed them jobs that helped start their careers.”

ON WHAT SINGAPORE CONSUMERS WANT “They are confident, savvy shoppers who want to look good and feel like themselves in their outfits… They’ve also become more adventurous and appreciative of local brands with the help of social media. (Having a successful brand) is no longer just about the product, but the entire shopping experience – from new launches to offering seamless online-tooffline convenience.”