Raoul interprets the new w prep that’s on the cruise runways
Preppy chic never really goes out of style, but for cruise 2014, designers are offering fresh takes on this perennial favourite.
After the formality and opulence of fall’s luxurious fabrics and film noir-esque silhouettes, it is time to lighten the mood as cruise 2014 swings around. As the weather takes a turn for the better and thoughts drift to sunny beach getaways, clothing needs to be fit to lounge about in. Which is why, designers seem to take inspiration from collegiate fashion—varsity jackets, knitted vests, button-up shirts and pleated skirts show up in many cruise collections this year and they stand apart from standard university fare with designer flair, one of the smartest ways to balance style with comfort. Good examples are Alexander Wang’s cheerleader skirts in creamy leather and Karl Lagerfeld’s cricket-inspired cruise collection for Chanel, which was unveiled in Singapore, with oversize knitted pullovers thrown insouciantly over shirts and ties.
Over at Chloé, designer Clare Waight Keller has a sweatshirt inlaid with lace and a pinstripe bias-cut skirt that is light and airy despite its maxi length. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino also have fun with the designer schoolgirl look this season with navy rompers, cable knit sweaters, snug peacoats and prim shirtdresses.
Singapore’s own Odile Benjamin, of Raoul, gravitates towards prep as a defining theme for her cruise collection as well. A brand that is fast garnering favour from fashion insiders, it only makes sense that Raoul would also tap into this trend for its latest collection.
Benjamin’s interpretation of this trend, however, took a literal saccharine turn thanks to her sweet tooth.
“It all started with my love for Japanese desserts, in particular mochi mochi,” says Benjamin. “That inspired the colour palette [for Raoul] which is all about sugar-frosted pastels with whipped cream frosting and a red cherry on top!”
Rice-dusted shades of mint green, azuki-bean pink, custard yellow and black sesame form the main colour scheme of the collection, which is dominated by easy-towear blazers, cable-knit cardigans and vests, shift dresses, twin sets and slim ankle-length pants. Even on the dressier pieces such as day dresses and evening gowns, collegiate touches show up in the form of bow sashes and box pleats.
“Generally preppy pieces tend to be more classic in terms of colour and silhouette. That makes them timeless and worthwhile investment pieces,” says Benjamin.
But the overall look is still one that is distinctly and consistently Raoul, with inventive motifs that take inspiration from the traditional German Battenberg cake. When cut in cross section, this marzipan-covered sponge cake displays a distinctive check pattern in alternating colours. Similarly, Raoul’s Battenberg print of square blocks in the season’s colour palette shows up on tailored pieces such as blazers and pants in silk shantung and silk crêpe de chine light dresses. The overall effect is equal parts elegant and whimsical, a sure winner with the Raoul customer who is looking for function married with form.
The collection’s monochromatic Alice print, a signature this season, acts as a good anchor for the frothy collection and is seen scattered as oversized vanilla pods nestled in between graphic flowers. The Alice print is lavishly sprayed on dresses in many varieties of cuts, including a drop waist tennis dress and a structured box pleat frock. A collection that has the best of the trends and looks good enough to eat.