NO JACKET REQUIRED
I discover how not wearing a jacket could be the most expensive trend ever
Is shoulder candy the new buzz word on the streets?
Coat slinging, shoulder robing, jacket perching—call it what you may, but this trend was all over Paris at the recent spring/ summer 2014 shows shows.
There was a time when all we wanted to do with a jacket was roll up the sleeves or scrunch them—make them as deconstructed as we could. It came in the wake of the whole ’80s fashion phenomenon of over-sized jackets that had shoulders the size of airplane wings, and was generally longer in length and boxier in shape. It was a rejection of the snug, micro-skinny, shrunkbeyond-words jacket that wrapped you, like a siew mai about to be steamed.
The past two years have seen yet another change in the way we wear jackets. It’s no longer scrunched-up; the ’80s roomy boyfriend jacket has had its day. Now, it's all about shoulder candy—yes, perching your jacket or coat across your dainty shoulders. Coat slinging, shoulder robing, jacket perching—call it what you may, but this trend was all over Paris at the recent spring/summer 2014 shows. As the gates to the fashion shows opened, deflated arms of all shapes, sizes, fabrics and textures elbowed for space as their owners, hands on their lapels, inched forward.
Air kisses were the order of the day as a hand shake was practically impossible with a truncated arm popping out beneath silk linings. Hugs were totally out as the jacket would then fall off. So, it was flapping arm to flapping arm and fabric to fabric, as editors air-kissed and walked off to the Tuileries Garden, straightbacked and with a jacket perched on their shoulders.
Apparently this was a rage even as far back as 2008, according to star snapper, Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist. He noticed this trend on Italians at the spring/summer 2009 shows and five years on, it’s as prevalent as a Zara store—round every street corner.
I myself fell victim to this trend, during my recent trip ro Paris for the shows. Anticipating colder temperatures, I had packed coats and jackets. But alas, the autumn weather in the fashion capital turned out to be quite warm. I had only packed white t-shirts and shirts to wear under my jackets, which were not appropriate attire for the front rows of Dior, Miu Miu or Valentino. So, I propped my coats and jackets over my shoulders the way every Sarah, Anna and Carine did. It was a struggle to look elegant with my two most precious assets helmed in under cashmere and wool. It did wonders for my normally hunched posture though. Shoulder candy demands an upright stance or else you risk looking like a 90-year-old blue-rinsed granny in her twinset. But hailing cabs or navigating the metro was challenging. I had to battle endlessly with the turnstiles, run past their iron doors so as to not leave my coat in their metal clutches.
I quickly realised shoulder robing was expensive, not the item per se, but it falls in the same category as ridiculously high heels and a tiny envelope clutch—you need an expense-paid car service to hop from one place to another beautifully kitted in shoulder robe, killer heels and just the slimmest hand candy.
The rest of us plebeian editors, who navigate the 20-per day show schedule on metro, need to sling our coats or jackets on our arm as we hop from show to show and rely on understanding editor friends to pop it back on our shoulders before we exit from Line 1 of the metro station.
But ladies, remember one thing: This look was successfully launched in the ’50s— twin sets and cardigan clips for preppy girls, like Sandra Dee from Grease, were the look of privilege and sophistication. And it has not changed much in the years that have followed. The sweaters have upgraded to jackets and coats but their perceived value is still the same—privilege, money and/or a hefty expense account. But then everything we do in fashion to achieve a certain je ne sais quoi doesn’t fall within logic or credit limit. So the next time you pop your coat on your shoulders as you hop out for lunch, just remember one thing: when that gust of wind threatens to disrobe you, find the nearest gentleman to offer to hug you over your shoulders. The boyfriend jacket may just have made a surreptitious return. Send me your comments on Twitter: goh_kenneth or Instagram: @kennieboy