LONG LIVE ART DECO
Transcending time, Art Deco was as contemporary then as it is timeless today. It’s no wonder that almost a century on, this vintage jewellery style remains highly sought after. By Rebecca Yap
Vintage jewellery make timeless investments
As 2013 jewellery trends would have it, old certainly is gold. For spring/summer 2013, Balmain sent enormous hoop earrings—reminiscent of the ’80s—down the catwalk, while Jean Paul Gaultier accessorised his models in rosaries. More recently, Dolce&Gabbana’s fall/ winter 2013 jewellery series drew on the treasures of the Santa Maria Nuova in Monreale, Sicily, for Byzantine crosses crafted into earrings, necklaces and crowns. Ralph Lauren also showed Baroque chandelier earrings—a nod to the literary classics Les Misérables and Anna Karenina.
The most impactful, however, was the visual extravaganza that was Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby in May 2013. The cast burst onto the silver screen swathed in diamonds crafted in Art Deco style. Designed by Tiffany & Co., notable pieces included a diamond and pearl headband, and a cuff of clear gems with geometric straight lines and circles. There’s nothing like a high-budget film to jolt our memory of the enduring worth of Art Deco jewellery and to boost its already steady demand in the auction market.
“Art Deco was the modern jewellery of that time and today, its structured design makes it functional and so easy to pair with something like a Prada dress,” says Brenda Kang, owner of Revival Jewels—Singapore’s first jewellery shop specialising in antique and vintage jewellery. Drawing on her 15-year experience as senior jewellery specialist at Christie’s, this is Brenda’s “passion project.” Prior to the cleaner designs of the Art Deco period, Art Nouveau jewellery (1890 to 1910) was inspired by natural forms such as flowers, insects and female forms like dancers and nymphs. Belle Époque or Edwardian jewels (1895-1914) were delicate, romantic and lacey, with stars, ribbons and bows as popular themes. Then came World War I and a wave of change.
The disruption of WWI brought a halt to jewellery creation as frugality and practicality took over. With the men away aw at war, women were forced to enter the labour force— many started work in factories. This was a pivotal point in the role ro of women in society, marking an end to values, traditions and an fashions of before. Gone were the corsets, bustles and long lo sleeves—clothing designs had to change to give women more m freedom of movement.
With the end of the war came the Roaring Twenties and th the lust for life. Women attended bridge parties, smoked in
WAR AGAINST FUSS
Models pose in Tiffany & Co.’s designs for The Great Gatsby
at the brand’s dinner at Rockpool in Sydney in May 2013
public, cut their hair short, bared their skin, indulged in sport and partied at night. Naturally, c clothing became more androgynous and trimmer. trim Parisian designer Pau Paul Poiret was the first couturier to embrace drapin draping over the traditional techniques of tailoring and corsetry. However, H it was really the rise of Coco Chanel that dealt the deathblow—and dea liberated women. With a look as different and novel as her creations, she blazed the trail for clothes that ex exuded youthful ease and unencumbered sportive confidence. She pioneered many innovative designs like the little black dress and the Chanel suit—the comfortable collarless wool jersey cardigan jacket and pleated skirt paired with a low-belted pullover top became the casual look for the rich.
“Jewellery also changed to become more simple to suit the fashion. Art Deco jewellery was a lot less fussy than that during the Belle Époque,” says Brenda. The first use of the term Art Deco wasn’t coined until the ’60s, after the exhibition “Les Années 25: Art Déco/Bauhaus/Stijl Esprit Nouveau” at the Museé des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The exhibition celebrated the 1925 Paris World Fair of Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (International Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts). A wide range of decorative arts, architecture and jewellery created from 1920 to 1970 took on the Art Deco label theron.
Long, lean earrings, flexible link bracelets, large cocktail rings and slim watches with diamond bracelets were the hallmarks of the period. “Bracelets were a must-have. Women then would stack them up one by one and wear them with evening wear. Art Deco earrings, on the other hand, are really y hard to find today and are in demand, making them hem very valuable,” says Brenda.
It’s easy to see how the designs of Art Deco jewellery ery had their roots in architecture and art, notably Cubism, sm, Futurism and Fauvism. The United States has many any buildings constructed in Art Deco style—landmarks like the Chrsyler Building and the Empire State Building g in New York reflect the style with their eir modern lines, simple looking facades, s, and geometric ornamentation.
It was also during this period that t the first designer jewels surfaced. The French were the top designers of Art Deco jewellery. Many pieces of the ’20s and ’30s were numbered as well as signed. d. Leading Art Deco jewellery designers such h as Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels can trace the original date of sale, price and owner through their archives. “Depending on the rarity, brand and design, something that is signed by a very well-known house that is very peak-of-theirtime, like Cartier, could be more expensive than what you find in the market today,” said Brenda.
Adding an Art Deco piece to your collection is like owning a piece of history, a piece of wearable art that is classic yet relevant today. For nostalgia lovers, it’s the most graceful way to return to an age of elegance.
Adding an Art Deco piece to your collection is like owning a piece of history.
Revival Jewels is at #12-09 International Building; 360 Orchard Roadv