In the Hood

Harper's Bazaar (Singapore) - - CONTENTS -

The hype sur­round­ing Hood By Air—the cult la­bel co-founded by Shayne Oliver from the gritty depths of NewYork’s nightlife and dance scene—has been bub­bling for some time in the fash­ion cir­cuit, but it wasn’t un­til 2013 that its pop­u­lar­ity ex­ploded in a riv­et­ing cat­walk pre­sen­ta­tion where graphic lo­gos found their place among con­cep­tual streetwear. Over the course of nine sea­sons, Oliver thrilled crit­ics and fans alike with an ex­per­i­men­tal brew of avant-garde sil­hou­ettes and sub­ver­sive fab­ri­ca­tions that chal­lenged the gen­der bi­nary.

Just when it seemed like noth­ing could stop Hood By Air’s as­cent to be­com­ing one of NewYork’s—if not fash­ion’s—most an­tic­i­pated show­ings, Oliver an­nounced in April last year that the brand would go on an in­def­i­nite hia­tus. In the months that en­sued, the 30-year-old de­signer has kept him­self busy by tak­ing on the role of Guest De­signer at Hel­mut Lang, while also col­lab­o­rat­ing with Diesel to pro­duce a denim range in­spired by its history. His lat­est en­deav­our? A spe­cial cap­sule col­lec­tion with Longchamp that will pro­pel the Parisian brand’s “demo­cratic na­ture” to new fron­tiers.

Oliver ex­plained that his de­ci­sion to work with the Parisian stal­wart was mo­ti­vated by his quest to re­write the norm.“I like to chal­lenge my­self and do things that are un­con­ven­tional, I think that can be very lib­er­at­ing,” he said. Longchamp’s heritage, plus a per­spec­tive that’s rooted in prac­ti­cal­ity, fur­ther en­ticed him.“For me, liv­ing in NewYork, Longchamp is part of the—dare I say—streetwear

Lo an [scene] be­cause a lot of peo­ple own Longchamp bags. It has a lan­guage that feels very or­ganic to me.”

n gT One of Oliver’ s touch points was travel, and from there he brought Longchamp’s signature ac­ces­sories on ad ch al a thrilling jour­ney across un­charted ter­ri­to­ries. A sling bag that ref­er­enced a med­i­cal arm sling, for ex­am­ple,

mer G p’s By em­pha­sised Oliver’s predilec­tion for fetishist gear.The iconic Le Pliage bag was also re­made with longer

ico han­dles, and marked with words such as “Hia­tus” and “Real­ness”. A re­it­er­a­tion even con­sisted of c. ni eti c two Le Pliage bags fused to­gether, as if the re­sult of a freak­ish ex­per­i­ment. “I was

Le sth try­ing to make the Le Pliage con­sis­tent with this idea of a new world,” he of­fered.

Pl ae iag ng

Ul­ti­mately, it is Oliver’s re-telling of a tale of two cities that gives the col­lec­tion

e shi bag its com­pelling back­bone. “New York is my home and it pu get ry- sa will al­ways be what I am in­spired by,” he said. nda pro bou

“But Paris is fash­ion.” ■

voca r’s tive­new Olive look, courtesy of Shayne

Clock­wise from left: Bag han­dles were ap­plied to bomber jack­ets. The Le Pliage bag was also at­tached to a gar­ment bag. Shayne Oliver and So­phie De­la­fontaine study­ing the prod­ucts. Pink also dom­i­nated the col­lec­tion

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