JULIAN CHEONG
F IRST RUNNER-UP Fabric manipulation takes on a conceptual and sensual slant Helmut Newton’s 1966 picture of an androgynous woman clad in Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking ranks high on the list of iconic photographs that continue to shape fashion’s landscape. Like many designers before her, 22-year-old Cheong was also drawn to the timelessness of the picture. But instead of taking the route of reinterpreting the tuxedo, the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts student chose to build a collection centred around another detail in Newton’s picture—the cigarette. Utilising her eye for form, proportion and fabrication to full effect, Cheong delivered a showing that featured graphic slogans and an abstract tartan print inspired by tobacco leaves emblazoned across cropped jackets, pleated skirts and oversized coats.