GUCCI
Since Alessandro Michele took over the reins of Gucci in 2015, he has steered it on a course that combines history, romanticism and eccentricity into one spellbinding narrative. Set in Arles, Gucci’s blockbuster cruise production was part deux of a trilogy that was Michele’s tribute to France. It provided a setting that appealed to Michele’s inner historian: Arles had strong ties to the Roman Empire, evidenced by the ancient baths and amphitheatre ruins found across the town. In addition, Alyscamps, a 1,500-year-old burial ground filled with the tombs of Roman royalty, was the perfect backdrop to a collection that included birth and death as some of its cerebral themes. Bathed in an eerie pink glow, with fire marking out a path as if symbolising a journey into the unknown, Michele’s nymphs floated down the cemetery in a rich tapestry of finery. Heavily embellished skirt-suits, lush velvet robes and dramatic gowns sheathed the designer’s vision of gothic brides. Checked skirts with sharp pleats recalled the uniforms of boarding schools.To further enrich his tale of irreverence, Michele also worked with several collaborators this season, among them the Chateau Marmont.The Californian hotel’s logo of a mystical faun pranced across sweaters and a drawstring sack inspired by a hotel’s laundry bag.