A Musing
THAT’ S A-MORE Farewell minimalism, hello maximalism
After seasons of minimalism, athleisure and off-duty offstyle, there’s a new spirit of excess in the air. Slowly but surely, maximalism, opulence and glamour have made their way back onto the catwalk and the streets. Perhaps it’s only fitting, since the person who kick started the minimalist phenomenon, Phoebe Philo Celine, is no longer with the brand. And just as fittingly, her successor, Hedi Slimane, showed sequins in all forms, forms, metallics and feathers in his debut collection for the French House.
Such ostentatious ornamentation is, of course, also a signature of Alessandro Michele and his work at Gucci. From the minute his first collection came down the runway, Michele shook up the fashion world with his brand of maximalism—one that combines history and romanticism with a certain madcap decadence. Three years on, the Michele effect continues to be influential, both on other designers as well as consumers.
Having won the British Emerging Talent award for womenswear at the Fashion Awards ards 2017, Michael Halpern has also been influential in spearheading the return of Studio 54-era glamour. Halpern sent out one KiraKira-worthy confection after another on the runway at his buzzy London Fashion Week debut. Speaking to Harper’s BAZAAR UK earlier this year, Halpern said,“I am a magpie through and through. I think there is something really beautiful and powerful in a type of sparkly protest.” His subsequent collections show no sign of dimming their sparkle, with head-to-toe sequins par for the course.The same goes for his future— his former employer, Donatella Versace, has asked him to consult on her couture line. In the world of haute couture, sparkles are not an anomaly but almost a requisite. Even so, designers managed to up the ante in their couture collections this fall/winter, bringing us all manners of OTT excess, an and then some. And, no one brought the drama a more than Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino.The final show of f the season, Piccioli Piccio received a standing ovation from the audience, who was left in tears over his breathtaking collection, which showcased saturated colours, pumped-up ruching and ruffles, and exaggerated silhouettes in full glory. Whether the return of maximalism is thanks to a reaction to the doom and gloom of the world we live in today, or the result of social media’s love for all things eye-catching, there’s no denying the power of a dramatic ensemble. After all, what’s not to love about something so that makes you feel empowered and makes ma a statement at the same time? ■ Send me your comments on Instagram: @neonwatermelon