Harper's Bazaar (Singapore)

Sacre Coeur Notes

Jacques Cavallier, the noted nose behind famous perfumes, reveals to Dana Koh the inspiratio­ns for Coeur Battant, his 10th feminine fragrance as Master Perfumer at Louis Vuitton


Perfume clearly runs in Jacques Cavallier’s veins. He’s a native of Grasse—the world’s perfume capital since the end of the

18th century—plus his father, grandfathe­r and great grandfathe­r all work in the same industry.

His hits include YSL Beauty’s

Opium Pour Homme, Giorgio Armani’s Acqua Di Gio, Issey

Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey and Tom

Ford’s Private Blend Tuscan Leather.Take a moment and close your eyes.You’ll remember at least one, if not all, of them. Since 2012, he has dreamt up some of the finest haute perfumes as LouisVuitt­on’s in-house master perfumer, showcasing olfactive savoir faire that melds an acute sense of smell with the spirit of travel in creations dedicated to moments, memories and meaningful places. We chat with the Maître Parfumeur about Coeur Battant, his latest and 10th feminine scent for Louis Vuitton— where crisp notes of juicy pear come together with musky ambrette seed, sweet Egyptian jasmine, earthy patchouli and animalisti­c narcissus in a wonderfull­y fresh yet sensual potion. What’s behind the name

Coeur Battant? “Coeur battant” is French for “beating heart”—that feeling you get on a first date where you feel your heart beating because that moment provokes a positive emotion. I was dreaming of creating a perfume full of emotions, volume and signature scents, and looking for ingredient­s that would bring freshness, fruitiness and voluptuous­ness. What ingredient­s make up this creation? For Les Parfums Louis Vuitton, my signature is to create perfumes based on contrast, by associatin­g different and unexpected ingredient­s. Firstly, there’s pear—I wanted to evoke the freshness you feel when you bite into one. For that, I used a natural pear-derived molecule as well as a unique molecule called Cascalone, which adds a cascade of freshness to the scent. I used pear exactly as I used mandarin for Le Jour Se Lève. It’s very powerful and quite volatile at the same time, but it links to another ingredient that I use a lot in my creations: Ambrette, which smells like sesame seed seeds. The scent, extracted through distillati­on in Grasse, is longlastin lasting and powerful.Then there’s Egyptian jasmine, a sensual, fresh and radiant flower, much spicier and more sensual than jas jasmine from Grasse. I finished with patchouli, which adds s sophistica­tion and elegance, and illuminate­s the perfume’s floral h heart. How do you feel three years after launching Les Parfums Louis Vuitton? I just want to celebrate and enjoy the freedom of my creative process—the most important thing for f me when I work on a fragrance. I like proposing new things, t and travelling the world to find the best-quality raw materials and inspiratio­n. What’s key to creating a good

fragrance? I believe the most successful perfumes in the market m are not only based on lastingnes­s, but also on quality, volume and singularit­y. ■

 ??  ?? Coeur Battant, $380 for 100ml, Louis Vuitton
Jacques Cavallier
Coeur Battant, $380 for 100ml, Louis Vuitton Jacques Cavallier
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