The Garden of the Gods
At the end of a winding road above Kalamaki Bay in Corfu lies a heavenly holiday hideaway—and infinity pool perfection
Despite its seemingly never-ending demands, every time I look at my phone, I feel a sense of calm wash over me; the wallpaper shows a black infinity pool, framed by ancient olive branches, whose glassy surface blends into the sea beyond. People don’t believe me when I say it’s a real, unfiltered image of a place that I, along with nine friends, was lucky enough to call home for a week on the beguiling Greek island of Corfu. Kilifi House is one of the newest properties offered by the excellent villa-rental company Scott Williams and is located in the north-east, about 50 minutes from the airport. To reach it, you’ll need a car and a strong stomach to tackle the winding coastal road that undulates around the atoll’s rugged mountains before climbing steeply above the sweeping bay of Kalamaki. It’s a dramatic journey that ends in an equally impressive arrival at the house, which was designed and constructed from the ground up by its owners, Lynn and Mark Skinner (there’s a fascinating photo book on the coffee table that documents the whole process and the logistical challenges along the way—the terrace was literally built around an old tree in the garden). Dropping our bags in the doorway, we were immediately soothed by the property’s clean and contemporary aesthetic, featuring delicate creamy white walls, rattan furniture and woven, cereal-coloured rugs. The interiors have been beautifully curated: Each of the five suites is decorated with floral headboards and striped or printed cushions, palm-tree-shaped lamps and burnished metal mirrors on the walls. The double-height living area is crowned with elegant painted beams and lined with huge floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that make the most of the incredible views from Kilifi’s unique vantage point.
But naturally, with glorious temperatures outside, we opted to spend most of our time sunbathing or reading by the aforementioned swimming pool, surrounded by perfectly manicured flower beds brimming with fragrant lavender and tall echiums in full bloom. There were plenty of places to perch al fresco, including a cluster of outdoor sofas shaded by a vast umbrella, where we gathered to play cards in the midday heat, refreshed by jugs of Aperol spritz. The fabulous fantasy kitchen was equipped with every culinary gadget you could ever dream of, and we rustled up languorous lunches of grilled fish, or sizzling chicken and vegetable skewers from the barbecue, with flatbreads and salads made with jewel-coloured tomatoes and fresh mozzarella from the local market. Each morning, we woke up to the smell of freshly brewed coffee and baskets of huge, flaky chocolate croissants that Kilifi’s wonderful housekeeping team brought with them. At night, we would wander down the path to Kalamaki’s sandy beach— dotted with bright yellow and blue striped umbrellas but barely any other holidaymakers—laden with ice-cold beers that we would sip at the end of the jetty while watching the sunset. As easy as it would have been to cocoon ourselves entirely at Kilifi, we decided to make the most of our rental cars and explore further afield, on one occasion enjoying a memorable lunch under a canopy of rich purple bougainvillea blossom on a patio overlooking the sea at Imerolia Taverna in Kassiopi. There were audible gasps when we were
presented with a plate of giant prawns grilled with lemon and herbs, and lobster spaghetti served sharing-style in the middle of the table, with seafood that, only minutes before, we had personally selected from a well-stocked fish tank. On the penultimate day of our trip, we set sail on board Ionian Blue Yachting’s stylish 16m motor sailboat, Virgo. The tour took us around the south of the island, past the Old Town with its ancient fort built on a craggy cliff side, while we ate a traditional lunch of stuffed vine leaves, marinated mushrooms and butter beans in tomato sauce, cooked by the jovial husband-and-wife team Dimitris and Katerina—generous Greek hospitality personified. Finally, we dropped anchor in the picturesque Kalami Bay, taking it in turns to leap into the crystal-clear turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea. Dimitris pointed out The White House, encircled by cypresses up on the hill and best known as the former residence of novelist Lawrence Durrell, whose brother Gerald, the naturalist, put Corfu on the map. “Gradually the magic of the island settled over us as gently and clingingly as pollen. Each day had a tranquillity, a timelessness, about it, so that you wished it would never end,” Gerald wrote; after my summer sojourn at this idyllic retreat, I couldn’t agree more.