ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Despite its relatively small size of 36 looks, the collection is one of the strongest this season. After 20 years showing in Paris, the brand finally returned to London, with a show staged in an inflatable bubble. With sounds of roaring thunder and birds on the soundtrack, anticipation filled the air. As for the clothes, several themes are in the mix: the sky as the key print; a deconstructed battle (or rather, truce) of the sexes; and most importantly, community. While previous McQueen collections were singular in vision, this season’s showcased a variety of women. From buzz cuts, cornrows and long locks to full-body tattoos, red or bare lips, and curves, the casting and styling reflected Creative Director Sarah Burton’s fitting process, which involved women from all walks of life. As a result, each look feels individualistic, gritty and whole. Voluminous “cloud” sleeves, biker-denim-suit hybrids, corseted midi dresses, parachute-like skirts and rain-like crystal embellishments are standouts.